Step 1: Materials and Tools
Saws (hand, jig and circular)
Drill and Driver
Square (straight edge and compound)
Chisel or router (for mortising door hinges)
Nail gun (Optional)
Pressure treated 2×6’s and deck boards
kiln dried 2x4s and 2×6’s
Wood for trim and door
Screws, Glue and nails
Step 2: A Strong and Level Foundations
We began by leveling one deck block and building the four corners of of that one. ensuring to always check for level. We dug each whole slightly below a foot deep and made bound to add about 5 inches of gravel to assist with drainage.We used 16 deck blocks in total. We used pressure treated 2×6’s for the outer frame and joists. Once all the 2×6’s were in situ and level we checked for square (measure from corner to corner on each diagonal and that they should equal an equivalent distance)
Step 3: Deck Boards and Bug Repellent
This was some extent to ponder. Should we use plywood to create a sub-floor of use deck boards. Ply wood would have looked a touch nicer and that we could have added flooring on top of that, but we worried about water getting into and ruining the plywood so we decided to use deck boards (5/4 thickness to stop and sponginess) We also put down some ground cover to assist prevent any bugs or weeds arising . I’m unsure if this may do anything, but it only cost $10 to try to to .
Also confirm to go away some space between each board to catch up on expansion.
I will mention, we attached the A Frames before the deck boards in order that we could attach them on to the ground frame for extra strength. this may be explained within the next step.
Step 4: Building and Installing the a Frames
So basically we made 3 A frames out of 6 2X6’s (12 feet long) and mortised in 2×4’s every 2 feet. the bottom we are building on is 10 feet wide and eight feet deep. Each 2X6 needed a 66 degree cut at rock bottom and a 24 degree cut at the highest . We also notched during a space at the highest to run a 2×6 across the ridge. Unfortunately I don’t have a photograph of this cut 🙁
Once the angles were cut, we lined all of them up and clamped the 2×6’s together to form sure all our cuts are equals.
Curf cuts are great for this. a few passes with the buzz saw and you’ll hammer and/or chisel out the pieces (see pics)We measured twice and cut 30 times….
We used wire mesh and gussets to secure the tops.
When lifting the A Frames up, we screwed during a couple temporary metal brackets to prevent it from slipping and toe nailed the bottoms of the 2×6’s into the ground . Then it had been as simple as adding the 2×4’s to the cut outs and adding a few angled 2×4’s to feature strength.
Step 5: Ridge Cap
We found some 90 degree 4 inch steel sheeting used for siding on your home and thought of an idea to form this work. Basically we ran some 1×1 wood across the ridge beam and laid the steel sheeting on top. It overlaps the 1×1 by an in. and a half so once we butt the roofing up against the 1×1, there’ll be enough overhang to direct water and hopefully keep the cabin dry.
Step 6: Got to Have a Window and a Door
So, this step depends on what to possess or can find. Framing for the window will depend upon the dimensions and sort you employ . Our Window was 39” by 39” but there are numerous different sizes that would work. Measure and think this through, you are doing not want to shop for a window that’s to small or to big. With reference to the door, we couldn’t find a second hand or new on I liked or that fit so we built one from scratch. i will be able to not explain this process fully as there are plenty of Instructables on this process. Basically I used store bought boards and glued and screwed them together. We added a cool port hole window for added light and ventilation
Since we made the door from scratch that also meant that we would have liked to create a door jam also . This was my first attempt and after a few Youtube videos I gave it a go and was please to ascertain it worked.
It is always good to possess a few extra hands to assist with this step.
When framing within the window and door confirm you are doing your research on this. you’ll need double 2×4’s on all sides an you ought to have two on the highest if there’s getting to be any weight distributed across the highest . Now i do know I didn’t do that exactly because it should be done, but it does work.
Shims were also wont to help level the widow and door.
The door and window were installed 5/8 of an in. to form sure the siding installed flush.
The door was primed in knot sealer and painted with exterior grade paint
We added an easy gate latch style door handle then far it works great.
Step 7: Siding and Trim
There are some ways you’ll side this structure. Plywood, barn board, cedar singles, etc. We decided to travel with 5/8 inch thick 8 inch wide tongue and grove siding made up of pine . This not only looks great, but is extremely affordable and straightforward to figure with.
Once a color was picked out, all the boards were primed. On one side we painted with exterior grade paint . We figured having the inside in white would help with light within the cabin.
It was simple to put in . Place against the frame, mark the cut, cut and install. We used a nail gun for this step to assist speed up the method but you’d use normal nails.
We also installed small vents at each end to assist with heat and air flow.
The trim is simply simple 1×3 boards painted white and nailed in situ . Super simple and appears great.
Step 8: Installing the Roof
For the roof we selected Tuftext because it was lightweight, affordable and straightforward to put in . We went with 6 beige panels and two clear ones (to add some light)
You can easily use plywood and singled here or maybe a metal roof. Its up to you.
Installing took about 2 hours and lots of hands bring a simple install. If using Tuftext, confirm you employ the right screws (with integrate rubber washers)
Just before install the 2×4 perlans were move length.
Step 9: DONE
SOURCE ————- www.instructables.com