Balanced Bottle Lamp


Speed Square
1/4″ Brad Point drilling bit
1-3/4″ Hole Saw
Jig Saw
Jig Saw Blade
Handheld Saw
Wood Glue
Screw Clamps
2″ Spring Clamps

Large Glass Bottle
3/4″ Thick Pine
1/2″ Thick Oak
2″ Thick Redwood
1/4″ Round Dowel
Lamp Parts:
Light Socket
Lamp Hardware Set
Lamp Cord

Step 1: Prepare the Bottle

In a previous project I cut off the bottom of a large glass bottle and used that to make a candle. Now is the time that I’ll be using the rest of that bottle.
Before I can start adding the parts, I need to sand smooth the cut surface of the bottle.

Step 2: Test Fit the Parts

Now I’m able to add the parts for the lamp; a light-weight socket, a threaded post that connects to the socket, and a nut to carry the threaded post to the lid of the bottle. so as to connect the post to the lid, i want to drill a hole into the lid. The post is 3/8″ in diameter so that is the size of bit I’ll use. Next I’ll test fit the parts, including fixing the sunshine bulb.

Step 3: Find the Center of Mass

With all of the parts together, i want to seek out the middle of mass. I pick the suppress with 2 fingers, one on either side, and see how it balances. I do this several times, re-positioning my fingers forward and back, until the bottle doesn’t tip either way once I pick it up. i exploit a bit of tape to mark now it’s going to not be the precise center of mass, but it’s close enough for this project.

Step 4: A Bit of Info

I’m using this 3/4″ thick pine board that I even have already cut for this to demonstrate where the angle of the board must be cut. you’ll see that where this board is cut at an angle, the middle of that flat surface is perpendicular to where I marked the center of mass for the lamp. Again, this does not need to be completely perfect, but reasonably close. But confine mind, the thinner the board is that you simply use, the more exact it’s to be. Thicker boards will offer you more leniency. This one can even be rocked back and forth alittle amount, so balancing is fairly simple.

Step 5: Drill the Hole

I’m getting to make a replacement one which will hold the bottle at a special angle, using this 1/2″ thick oak board. I start by making a shave from the top about 3″ and another mark centered on the width of the board. the space from the top is simply a private preference, counting on how you wish the way it’s . I’m employing a hole saw that’s slightly larger than the neck of my bottle, but first i will be drilling a 1/4″ hole for my guide bit. On the previous board I drilled the opening straight in. This one i would like to drill it at about 45 degrees.

Step 6: Mark and Cut the Angle

After drilling the opening , I put the bottle into it and position it and therefore the board at the angle that i would like it to balance. i exploit the grid on my work mat to assist me align everything. This vertical line that I’m drawing is lined up with the middle of mass for my lamp. I draw this horizontal line through the center of the vertical line. this may be where I cut the board. i exploit a straight fringe of my square to form sure the road is straight. I extend that line along each of the edges of the board, using my square to form sure the road goes straight across. this may help me confirm I’m cutting it straight. you’ll cut this with a hand saw, but i will be using my jig saw, set to an equivalent angle because the mark that I drew.

Step 7: Adjust If It Doesn’t Balance

Now that it’s cut I test it out. Something is wrong because it won’t balance, it keeps tipping to the left. I countercheck the middle of balance for the lamp, that also looks good. Looking again from the side, the middle of balance is aligned correctly with my mark. I happen to note that a part of the bottle is resting on the board. a number of the bottles weight is being supported directly by the board here, shifting the balance point. this is often where things are being thrown off balance. to regulate for that I stop a touch more, just estimating a few 1/4″ more to get rid of . It still didn’t balance, so I stop another 1/4″. Now it balances well.

Step 8: Wire Up the Cord

Next I’ll take all of the parts apart so I can attach the cord for the lamp. I take apart the sunshine socket, which is held along side one screw from the within of the socket. Then I feed the cord through all of the parts, one by one. Now it is time to attach the wires to the lamp socket. On this plug, one prong is wider than the opposite one.

When plugged into an outlet this wider prong is that the neutral wire and therefore the narrower prong is that the hot wire. within the light socket, the two screw I connect these wires to are different colors. The neutral wire must hook up with the silver colored screw and therefore the hot wire must hook up with the brass screw. I bend the top of the wire in order that it wraps round the screw clockwise. This helps it to grab better as I tighten the screw.

Step 9: Re-Assemble the Parts

Now I can put all of these parts back together. I pass the cord through the hole in the board, balance the bottle, then plug it in.

Step 10: Another Option

Now I want to show another option. When I was at the hardware store looking at boards, I saw a 2″ x 2″ piece of redwood that was already cut at 45 degrees on each end. I cut off these ends and glued them together side by side. I align this with the previous piece to mark where the hole need to be drilled. I placed it front down on the newer piece and traced out the hole, then I used the same steps as before to drill out the hole. After drilling out the hole, I test it with the lamp. It balances well, so next I’m going to a show couple of things about this design.

Step 11: You Can Give It Feet

First I measure the distance from the bottom to where I drilled the hole, which turns out to be about 6″. The next thing is the base. Although you want the center of mass for the bottle to be above the middle of the base, you can actually carve out the middle and give it some feet. This actually helps it balance a little bit easier because it doesn’t have the full bottom to rock back and forth on as easily.

Step 12: Additional Bottle Support With Thicker Wood

The final thing that i would like to point out is this; the neck of this bottle may be a bit short compared to the thickness of this wood. this might end in the lamp beginning of the opening. to deal with this issue I’m getting to add this 1/4″ dowel to assist support the bottle in situ . I drill a hole within the center of the highest all of the way through into the opening . The dowel can slide in snugly, so now I put the bottle back to place to ascertain how well it works.

I want the dowel to travel into the gap between this glass ridge and therefore the lid in order that it catches. After testing it and seeing that this is often working, I remove the dowel, add a touch of glue, then reinsert the dowel. this is not an ideal thanks to glue the dowel into place, but it’ll be quite effective for this project. I position the dowel as far down because it can go and still allow me to get rid of the bottle. After the glue dries i will be able to stop the surplus dowel. But before the glue dries, I wipe off the surplus glue with a humid towel and eventually , I leave it to dry.

Step 13: And That’s It

And that’s all that I’ve done for now. I want to make some decorative modifications to each of these stands. Any tips on how I can improve their appearance would be greatly appreciated, so please leave a comment on what would be awesome ways that I can finish each of these.

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