Bookshelf Cabinet Step By Step



– Welding machine

– Angle Grinder

– Miter saw

– Circular saw

– Jigsaw

– Sander/paper

– Welding magnets

– Spirit level

– Tape measure

– Corner iron

– Wood drill

– Metal drill

– Countersink

– Steel brush

– Chisel


– Rectangular metal tube:

2x 60×40 2mm 2000 mm

2x 60×40 2mm 2350 mm

2x 60×40 2mm 480 mm

– Angle Profile metal:

14x 40×40 2mm 50mm

– Wooden shelves:

4x 32x400mm 460 mm

2x 32x400mm 2300 mm

1x 32x400mm 1300 mm

2x 32x400mm 2630 mm

– Sanding paper 80, 120 and 160 grid

– Corner iron

– Screws 30mm

– Decking screws

– Wood stain

– Wood glue

– Transparent Metal paint

– Anti metal splash spray

Step 1: Step 1 Ask the Old Men and Make a Design/Plan

To get this project off to an honest start, i assumed it might be knowing ask my father to assist . Not only because it’s fun to try to to something like this together but mainly because i have never welded before and he wont to work as a welder and later as a cad-designer.

Of course I could have asked my dad to weld the frame together, but I wanted to find out the way to weld and since this is often for our house , this was the right moment. So he taught me the fundamentals then I spent the required time laying welds on a bit of waste metal.

After a while I felt comfortable enough to start out welding this cabinet, the welds are never perfect yet but I’m still learning. My father was kind enough to form a CAD model of the planning I wanted to create . This made the method far more efficient and easier because I knew immediately what I needed, in what dimensions and that i had some quite (construction) plan. A summary of the materials was already mentioned within the previous topic, however, the list we created within the CAD program included also the angle cuts I made so i made a decision to incorporate it.

Step 2: Step 2 Getting the Materials and Preparing Them.

With the parts list, I bought all the wood for the shelves and therefore the rectangular metal tubes for the frames, luckily the shop where I bought it had a hacksaw in order that they could cut the metal directly into the proper lengths and angles I needed.

The ends of the frame are sawn at an angle of 45 degrees and also are welded during this way. Where the upper and lower frame are welded together I even have chosen for a right angle connection.

I also needed brackets to connect the shelves too, for this, I cutted 14 brackets from a 3×3 angle profile with an angle grinder. In each bracket, I drilled two holes which I countersank therefore the screws would be flush with the brackets.

I chose the wood very carefully because I had to attach two pieces together that you simply want to be so straight and flat, luckily the DIY store had tons of them available .

Step 3: Step 3 Welding and Grinding

Everything was ready now we could really start, first I sanded all the ends of the tubular tubes short therefore the right angles are easy to weld then we put rock bottom frame on a flat surface. When all was well I welded the lower frame along side tag welding on one among the ends where the upright frame are going to be , I made a bit of wood to size and put it temporarily in between so i used to be sure it might stay square under the frame. Then we welded the standing frame on the left side and therefore the middle stand on the proper side to rock bottom frame. When everything clothed to be at right angles, I welded it completely. When it had been finished we measured where the brackets for the shelves had to be and welded them in situ .

Since we were welding outside within the outdoors with a MIG/MAG welding machine I used flux-core welding wire, this suggests you get slag and metal splashes. Although I’m not knowledgeable welder I wanted to stay the welds in view so I removed the slag with a steel brush and therefore the metal spatter with a chisel luckily I used an anti spray therefore the amount of metal spatter wasn’t that bad.

at rock bottom of the frame, we’ve grinded away the welds, this part isn’t in view in any case and it prevents scratches on the ground and makes sure the frame stands stable.

Step 4: Step 4 Woodworking

The frame for the cupboard is now ready so I could start with the woodwork, first I sawed the wood in coarse lengths with the miter saw then I glued two pieces together into one plank and in fact the side panels that had to be glued.

As you’ll see on the photographs the cupboard has four side panels, two of which are round the metal central post, one on top of the post and therefore the refore the other on the left and the right side of the central post. the highest panel has been move size with a jigsaw, the opposite sides, and therefore the shelves are move the precise width with a buzz saw because my miter saw couldn’t cut the specified length in one go.

After sawing everything to the length I carefully removed all the glue residue with a chisel and sanded everything with 80 grid, 120 grid and finished with a 160 gird.

After sanding it had been time for the primary test assembly, I wanted to form sure everything fitted for the pickling and therefore the final assembly, everything fitted perfectly as you’ll see on the photographs , I used glue clamps and a few pieces of wood to carry everything.

Step 5: Step 5 Painting and Staining

After removing all the wood from the frame, I pulled the frame the garden, cleaned it with ammonia so I could then finish it with a transparent metal lacquer to stay the metal color and to be protected against corrosion. I applied two coats, to form sure that everything would be protected.

When the lacquering was finished it had been time to stain the shelves, for this I had already tried differing types of stain on waste wood and my wife and that i chose the foremost beautiful one for this project, the selection fell on a light-weight oak stain applied in two layers. I applied the stain with a cotton plug and polished it well, after letting the primary layer dry for half-hour I applied the second layer.

Step 6: ​Step 6 Assembly

As everything was ready now, it had been time for the ultimate assembly, due to the load and size I did the assembly within the front room where the cupboard are going to be .

First of all I put the cupboard together a bit like I did with the test stand and glued it with glue clamps etc. so I could align everything properly and make everything even. Then I screwed the shelves to the brackets that were welded to the frame. The side panels are wood-on-wood joints that I pre-drilled then I used Spax deck screws with a Torx head.

These screws contain milling ribs under the top so it’s not necessary to countersink the top of the screw. additionally , the milling ribs make sure that the wood has room to figure . This also reduces the prospect of cracks, the foremost important thing is that the screw heads are so small that the screw holes also are as small as possible. These screw holes can, of course, be eliminated, but I even have chosen to not do that .

Step 7: End Result

Rack for a Bottle and 2 Cups Out of Pallet

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