STEP 1—-THE PLAN
Support beams for the deck are 60cm apart. On each beam, there are four foundations supporting the beam. For the seven longer beams under the house, there’s a further foundation. Foundations are approximately 130cm apart along the beam.
The outer footprint of the greenhouse is 3.84×3.84m. For an in depth measurements see the link within the Bill Of Materials.
The left a part of the deck is at level with the bottom , and about 50cm above the bottom within the right end. this provides a pleasant feeling of being integrated with the garden. the steps are 120cm wide.
STEP 2 —- PREPARATION
Clearing bushes, removing an old shed with it’s foundation, and levelling the bottom . We left as many of the trees and bushes as we could, so we didn’t need to wait a few years for everything to grow in.
In the pictures you’ll see four temporary wooden beams, that were levelled and had the peak of the ultimate deck and support beams. this manner it had been easy to ascertain what proportion earth that had to be removed, because it is important that the ultimate beams aren’t in direct contact with the world , which might cause them to quickly rot.
STEP 3 —- CONCRETE FOOTINGS
Holes for the concrete were drilled with a ø10cm hand earth auger, to a depth of roughly 60cm. Shoes were placed 130cm apart.
I had a concrete mixer at hand, but usually mixed the cement during a big bucket or wheel barrel, as I worked thereon a couple of hours each day after work. And cleaning a concrete mixer takes tons of your time and water.
To make sure you begin out completely square, you’ll use the 3-4-5 trick. Place three rods with a distance of 3m, 4m and 5m apart, and place a string the 3m and 4m side. These strings are going to be at an ideal 90° angle, you’ll use to align the support beams with. (it will in fact also work with 6m, 8m and 10m etc., as long as you retain the 3:4:5 ratio)
STEP 4 —- SUPPORT BEAMS
When bolting the beams onto the shoes, you’ll adjust the peak by placing wedges between the shoe and therefore the beam, as illustrated within the sketch.
I began by carefully levelling out every third or fourth beam, then placed an extended aluminium profile across, to urge the peak for the beams in between. this manner you’ll save time on levelling, Beams were placed 60cm apart, but this may depend upon the wood and thickness of the planks you’re using. A minimum of 60cm is suggested for 23x145mm Jatoba hardwood.
The support beams are 40x80mm, but i might recommend using a minimum of 50mm wide beams, because the deck screws need to be placed very close the top of the plank, once they meet one another on a narrow beam.
STEP 5 —- GREENHOUSE FOUNDATION
The greenhouse foundation is that the black aluminium frame the photographs , with posts in each corner set in cement. the inspiration and frame isn’t attached to the deck, but hovers 5mm above the deck. My dog demonstrates how the inspiration corner posts (and electricity) is skilled the deck.
The foundation was temporarely assembled and cast after the beams were in situ , but before the deck was layed. this manner the beams might be used as a refernce to urge the inspiration within the right height (plank height+5mm gap), and aligned with the deck.
The foundation was disassembled after the cement set (except for the posts) in order that the deck might be layed. When the deck was complete, the 5mm gap between the inspiration frame and therefore the deck was closed with a silicone seal to permit for the deck to maneuver underneath the house.
I didn’t skills much the boards would move with the seasons, or how a storm would affect the house, hence this slightly complicated solution, rather than just bolting the house to the deck. the inspiration for the house was stronger than for the deck, and with reinforcement in order that it can withstand a storm. Consult and follow the manual of your greenhouse.
There is outdoor wires for electricity drawn to 2 corners of the house, and attached to the side of the beams.
Step 6 —- How to Cut the Planks
Before you begin laying the deck, it’s an honest idea to plan the way to cut the planks. Otherwise you’ll find yourself with all the joints in one location, or during a strange looking repetetive pattern.
The planks were 540cm long (half the length of the deck), each spanning nine beams 60cm apart. To opened up the joints, and making as few cuts as possible, i select the layout within the sketch. Starting with two full length planks within the first row. Plank A was then cut in order that it spanned two and 7 beams, with a full plank between them, then forth. The pattern repeated after seven planks.
Step 7 —- Laying the Deck
The deck was mounted with a 5mm gap. The supplier of the boards recommended 7mm, and that i guess they were right The boards change tons with humidity, and that they were dry once I layed them out.
In the a part of the deck that was inside the house, I placed an self adhesive rubber lock in the gaps, to scale back draft and bugs arising from the underside.
It is important to use chrome steel screws certified for the sort of hardwood you’re getting to use, otherwise they’re going to discolor the wood. And remember that stainless screws are very soft, so you simply get one chance putting them in. to form sure you usually place the deck screws within the same distance from the sting , you’ll create a cardboard template, or 3D print one if you’ve got an excessive amount of time.
I used some clamps where you’ll replace the jaws with a deck jaw (see the image in BOM). This allowed for pulling and pushing the planks into place. i might recommend getting the most important you’ll , as hardwood require some force to be kept in situ .
There is a screw within the middle of both ends of the beams, between which the yellow string is attached, in order that all screws might be aligned properly.
Step 8 —- Assembling the Greenhouse
Assembling the greenhouse was just to follow a really complicated instruction manual!
This is a two person job, both for holding and moving parts, but also for interpreting the manual.
As we mounted the glass, we added postit’s to the panes to avoid walking into them. and therefore the postit’s in dog height, were left on for an extended time,.. 🙂
The glass panes are held in situ with a rigid plastic profile, which will be hard to work out if it’s been mounted properly. So it’s worth double checking on the ceiling, as they’re hard to succeed in again if they ought to come loose, once all glass has been mounted.
It is important to urge a greenhouse with tempered glass, if you’re getting to stay inside for extended periods of your time , or if kid’s might play in there. you do not want large shards of glass falling form the ceiling when hit by a ball or bird.
We replaced the highest of the desk with a stone plate, as a wooden top would probably not last long with the changing humidity and temperature.
Step 9 —- SKIRTING
When placed perpendicular to the beams, the beams are cut in order that they stick out 5mm, or an equivalent distance as is between the planks of the deck. The skirting can then be screwed into the beam ends, using an equivalent screws as for the deck.
When placed parallel to the beams, a peace of wood or wedge are often placed behind as a spacer (the red part within the sketch), to realize an equivalent 5mm gap.
Step 10 —- Bill of Materials and Tools
Hardwood planks: 55 m2 (22x145mm x540cm) Jatoba FSC
Screws: 1000x Stainless steel 5.5x60mm (approved for hardwood)
Beams: 80m (40x80mm) @ every 60cm
Foundation shoes: 83
Foundation Bolts: 170 (8x45mm)
Greenhouse with tempered glass.
Concrete stones for edges 5.5x14x21cm tumbled edges.
Four large clamps with add on for deck (see image)
Drill for sinking in the screws (see image)
Template for marking holes for screws
Cordless drill (preferably two, one with drill and one with torx bit)
Hand earth auger Ø10-15cm
Cement mixer or a big bucket
Measuring tape >15m
Rigid (aluminium) profile for leveling 4m
String, bits, etc,
SOURCE —————- www.instructables.com