DIY Eletric Bike


– Donor bicycle

Note: This can be any bike you want but I bought a fat tire Mongoose dolomite (for the looks).

– E-bike motor and controller kit

– Sheet metal to make a battery box

– Sheet metal working tools: cutting wheel, welder, drill, drill bits, step bits, PPE

– Battery packs (Check out my other instructable that explains how to make your own battery)

– Headlights and tail lights

– On/Off switch to cut off power to the battery for charging

– Primer and Spray paint

– Electrical connectors (XT60 connectors, solder/head shrink, charging plugs, etc.)

Step 1: Getting a Bicycle for the Base

Bicycles¬†are available¬†all shapes, sizes¬†and designs¬†. If¬†you do not¬†have already got¬†a bicycle then¬†you’re¬†getting to¬†want¬†to shop for¬†a replacement¬†one.¬†you’ll¬†use any style bike¬†you would like¬†but there are¬†a couple of¬†belongings you¬†will want¬†to stay¬†in mind when picking¬†a motorcycle¬†out. First,¬†you would like¬†a steel framed bike. Our battery box¬†are going to be¬†made out of¬†sheet¬†so¬†we’d like¬†something¬†we will¬†weld easily. If you¬†accompany¬†an aluminum or composite frame then¬†it’ll¬†be harder to secure¬†A battery¬†box. Also, bikes that¬†aren’t¬†steel tend to be¬†far more¬†expensive. Our next requirement is¬†that you simply¬†need a frame that has room for the batteries. I custom built¬†A battery¬†to specifically¬†slot in¬†my bike frame (you can¬†do that¬†too if you¬†inspect¬†my battery build here).

Since¬†this is often¬†a budget ebike, I ended up buying¬†an inexpensive¬†donor bike from a¬†emporium¬†. The bike I used¬†is named¬†the Mongoose Hitch/Dolomite. I¬†don’t¬†recommend this if¬†you’ve got¬†money to spend on¬†a top quality¬†bike or¬†have already got¬†an honest¬†bike¬†to start out¬†with. This bike¬†isn’t¬†meant to handle all¬†the strain¬†and strain of a motor¬†which will¬†go 50 MPH.¬†i will be able to¬†be beefing up parts of the bike that I can identify as a weak points, but¬†it’s¬†still cheaply produced.¬†i will be able to¬†also always be wearing safety gear¬†just in case¬†of an accident.

A little bit about the Dolomite:

I have always loved the looks of a fat tire bike.¬†they need¬†a really¬†rugged and badass look to them. Out of all the fat tire bikes¬†i used to be¬†ready to¬†find online, the dolomite¬†appeared like¬†the simplest¬†option with¬†a comparatively¬†cheap price. Overall¬†it’s¬†well built bike and Mongoose¬†may be a¬†reputable company. This¬†doesn’t¬†mean the bike¬†is prepared¬†to handle all¬†the additional¬†power and torque of¬†the electrical¬†motor. The Dolomite¬†features a¬†26″ x 4″ tire which¬†is very large¬†compared to your average road/mountain bike.¬†it’s¬†also fitted with disk brakes which¬†may be a¬†necessity. If we¬†decide to¬†go fast then¬†we’d like¬†to possess¬†the stopping power to back it up. Overall, the bike looks amazing and¬†may be a¬†decent platform¬†to create¬†off of.

On the acute budget:

If¬†you’re¬†really¬†trying to find¬†a budget option then¬†i might¬†suggest¬†finding out¬†used bikes on FB marketplace¬†or even¬†even craigslist.¬†you’d¬†be surprised the¬†sorts of¬†deals¬†you’ll¬†find on there.¬†a number of¬†those bikes might need¬†a touch¬†work like new tires or inner tubes, but¬†they will¬†be very solid.¬†albeit¬†the paint is bad then its not super important since¬†we’ll¬†be painting the bike¬†within the¬†end. As long as¬†it isn’t¬†completely rusted out then¬†it’ll¬†be fine.¬†you’d¬†need to¬†do¬†a touch¬†more research for¬†this feature¬†but¬†you’d¬†save¬†tons¬†of cash¬†and have¬†an excellent¬†bike. In hindsight, I wish¬†i might¬†have¬†searched for¬†a second hand¬†bike first¬†rather than¬†buying¬†fresh¬†.

Step 2: Picking Out a Electric Motor and Controller

Picking out the Motor and controller¬†is actually¬†the guts¬†and brain of the bike.¬†they’re¬†vital¬†and will¬†be¬†checked out¬†carefully. If¬†this is often¬†your first electric vehicle build then¬†i might¬†highly suggest buying a kit (like I did). They piece everything together for you so¬†there’s¬†no guessing on which controller will work with which motor. Also, buying a kit¬†isn’t¬†that¬†far more¬†expensive than buying the components separately (In certain cases but¬†this relies¬†on brands and power levels). Name brand ebike companies will charge an arm and leg for parts but¬†this is often¬†unnecessary. All the needed components¬†are often¬†bought from places like eBay, Ali express, or Amazon.¬†a standard¬†misconception with these websites is that the parts are cheap and unreliable. Truth is,¬†a number of¬†the parts are hit and miss.¬†you only¬†got to¬†determine what parts are worth buying. A general rule of thumb to me is buy mid range price levels.¬†which will¬†be your best bet¬†to urge¬†decent parts.¬†there’s¬†a touch¬†truth¬†within the¬†saying “you get what you¬†buy¬†.”¬†I even have¬†made¬†this error¬†and trust me¬†once I¬†say never¬†accompany¬†the most cost effective¬†thing out there.¬†it’ll¬†presumably¬†be junk and not work very long. Hint: most name brand suppliers resell cheap eBay parts just with their name¬†thereon¬†(they are essentially¬†an equivalent¬†parts).

I went with a kit as¬†against¬†piecing it together for this project since¬†i used to be¬†doing¬†a better¬†wattage build and didn’t want to risk blowing anything up. The kit I purchased was from a vendor called “Theebikemotor” on amazon (can be seen here). The kit was around $600 dollars which¬†appeared like¬†a good¬†price to me. It also came with everything I needed and also included¬†a pleasant¬†LCD display¬†that would¬†display speeds and power levels.

If¬†you are doing¬†not¬†accompany¬†a kit then these are¬†the most¬†parts¬†you’ll¬†need:

Hub motor (if¬†you purchase¬†just a motor then¬†you’ll¬†got to¬†re-lace your wheel)
Motor controller – The motor and controller will¬†got to¬†have matching voltages (unless you’re¬†getting to¬†over volt and over amp but please¬†don’t¬†do that¬†on your first build)
Optional parts:

Pedal Assist system (if you accompany a lower wattage motor)
LCD display (looks cool)
The options of companies and parts to shop for are endless, so I just recommend browsing and researching before you purchase anything. an excellent sign is positive reviews on the merchandise . Do a fast google search on the corporate and see what people are saying about the merchandise . likelihood is that that somebody out there has bought an equivalent kit and posted their experience on a web forum somewhere.

Step 3: Getting a Battery Pack

Buying one:

The are¬†a couple of¬†main¬†belongings you¬†want¬†to seem¬†at when buying a prebuilt battery pack. What cells are in it?¬†what percentage¬†volts¬†within the¬†pack putting out? What are the amp hours of the pack? And,¬†what’s¬†the form¬†of the pack?

You can use¬†a spread¬†of various¬†cells but¬†i like to recommend¬†18650 cells.¬†they’re¬†the foremost¬†widely used cells for hobbies like this.¬†they need¬†been tested and work¬†alright¬†in ebike applications. Next¬†you would like¬†to seek out¬†A battery¬†pack that puts out¬†the specified¬†voltage recommended on the motor and controller (these should all match). If¬†you’ve got¬†a 48V motor, then your controller should be 48V and¬†you ought to¬†have a 48V pack. The amp hours are¬†the sole¬†a part of¬†the pack¬†that may not¬†super detrimental (don’t get this confused with¬†what percentage¬†amps the pack can put out). This just means¬†what percentage¬†cells are in parallel there are¬†and the way¬†long will the pack run until¬†it’s¬†out of juice. If¬†you’re¬†concerned with space on the bike then get a lower Ah battery.¬†you’ll¬†just¬†got to¬†anticipate more charging¬†and therefore the¬†packs will die out faster. The¬†last item¬†you’ll¬†want¬†to think about¬†is that the¬†shape of the battery. Ask yourself, where will this be¬†happening¬†the bike?¬†you do not¬†want¬†to shop for¬†an excessively¬†big battery¬†which will¬†not fit easy. It’s better to be too small¬†during this¬†case.¬†you’ll¬†always add more batteries later if¬†you would like¬†and have¬†the space¬†.

I highly suggest building your own battery.¬†you’ll¬†economize¬†,it is¬†bound to¬†slot in¬†the frame, and¬†you’ll¬†stand behind your work and say you built everything from scratch.¬†you’ve got¬†such a lot¬†more control over building your own battery pack¬†rather than¬†purchasing one online.

Step 4: Getting a Rough Outline Design

Assuming you¬†have already got¬†your battery built then¬†you’re¬†able to¬†start planning the battery box.

Some tools and materials I recommend:

box cutter and exacto knife
cardboard or crafting foam
packing tape
measuring tape
straight edge
Building¬†A battery¬†box¬†might be¬†done¬†a couple of¬†alternative ways¬†.¬†you’ll¬†either map it out with cardboard, model it on a CAD software, or wing it. I highly suggest the cardboard idea. It’s an old car trick I’ve learned over the years.¬†you’re taking¬†the cardboard, cut¬†a touch¬†bit at a time, continuously¬†attempt to¬†fit it on the bike, and tape it into place once you¬†catch on¬†to¬†the form¬†you would like¬†. It basically mimics how the metal will fit when its all said and done.¬†this is often¬†great because¬†you’re¬†ready to¬†start over if you mess something up or¬†consider¬†something better.¬†the simplest¬†part is¬†once you¬†finally get¬†the planning¬†you would like¬†,¬†you’ll¬†pull of the cardboard and use it as a stencil on the metal.

One of the most important challenges was fitting everything into the battery box. I not only wanted the batteries in there, but I also wanted it to contain all my wiring, controller, and a converter for the lights. once I built my batteries, I also had this in mind so I even have been planning from the start . I finally found an orientation i used to be proud of so i made a decision to create around that. (see pics)

I went through¬†numerous¬†different designs until I¬†found out¬†what I wanted.¬†this is often¬†an excellent¬†time to plan out wiring paths, switches, and other additional¬†belongings you¬†may choose. Once¬†you narrow¬†the metal then¬†it’ll¬†be really hard¬†to repair¬†and¬†you’ll¬†need to¬†start over. I also suggest¬†ensuring¬†it’ll¬†suit your¬†batteries easily while its still made out of cardboard.

After¬†you’ve got¬†the box fully built out of cardboard and taped into the bike then I suggest sitting¬†thereon¬†and¬†ensuring¬†its comfortable between your legs. My box¬†is extremely¬†wide so¬†i used to be¬†concerned with the metal digging into my leg. I ended up making some adjustments which made it¬†easier¬†and also made it look cooler.¬†within the¬†pictures¬†you’ll¬†be¬†ready to¬†see how I designed my box.

Note: this may already be a really heavy bike, so I suggest building your battery box as slim as possible. attempt to make the box fit round the batteries and controller tightly. Extra room means more weight in metal and allows the batteries to bounce around while riding.

Step 5: Hub Motor Install

This was far and away the worst a part of the build and was completely unanticipated. Also take notes if you opt to travel with this particular kit.

When I received this kit, it came with a motor and rim combo (everything was already mounted¬†and prepared¬†to go).¬†curiously enough¬†, the rim width was¬†a special¬†size than dolomite rim. The rim width on¬†the web site¬†didn’t¬†match what I received¬†within the¬†mail.¬†it had been¬†almost¬†an in.¬†thinner than¬†it had been¬†alleged to¬†be. This¬†may need¬†been¬†an error¬†on¬†the corporate¬†but I¬†didn’t¬†want to¬†affect¬†the return process. My solution was¬†to only¬†use the dolomite wheel. The wheel that came¬†within the¬†kit was also¬†a special¬†color than the dolomite one so¬†within the¬†end it¬†understanding¬†(matte vs gloss).

Step one was to unlace the rim that came¬†within the¬†kit. *Take pictures of both rims before hand so¬†you recognize¬†lace and motor orientation*. Keep track of everything so¬†you’ll¬†put it back together¬†the precise¬†same way.¬†to require¬†apart the rim, its as simple as removing the nipples from the spokes.¬†you’ll¬†just take a flat-head screwdriver¬†and switch¬†them out.¬†do that¬†to both rims and keep track of both sets of spokes and nipples. The Dolomite¬†also will¬†have the tire, tire liner, and¬†tube¬†installed so remove those¬†also¬†. After¬†you’re taking¬†all the spokes out¬†you ought to¬†be left with two bare rims, a motor, and a spool with gears.

This is where things¬†began to¬†get difficult. The holes for the nipples on the Dolomite were too small for the ebike kit nipples. This meant that I had to drill out the holes on the Dolomite. This¬†wasn’t¬†an enormous¬†deal until I took the fully assembled wheel¬†to urge¬†balanced. The shop told me¬†it had been¬†not safe enough to ride¬†and that they¬†wouldn’t¬†balance it for legal reasons. Their fear was that the spokes would pull right out of the rim from the torque. I then decided¬†to put in¬†washers¬†round the¬†rim¬†to offer¬†the nipples more¬†area¬†to grip onto (they¬†also are¬†steel so it should be more rigid than the aluminum rim). FYI:¬†I even have¬†been riding my bike for¬†a couple of¬†months now¬†and therefore the¬†wheel is holding up great.

Take the dolomite rim and motor¬†and start¬†lacing.¬†confirm¬†you review the orientation of the lace from¬†the photographs¬†you took. I found it easiest to lie the rim and motor on their side¬†to urge¬†the primary¬†spokes started. When installing the nipples,¬†don’t¬†tighten them down all the way.¬†you simply¬†got to¬†get¬†the primary¬†threads on so it holds¬†in situ¬†. The motor should be loose until you get all the spokes installed. Once you get¬†the primary¬†few spokes in,¬†you’ll¬†stand the rim up¬†and begin¬†working your way around.¬†i might¬†suggest working¬†round the¬†rim¬†sort of a¬†clock. Start at 12 and move¬†to three¬†, then¬†to six¬†and eventually¬†9.¬†this may¬†keep the motor tension even around all the sided and help keep it centered on the rim.¬†this is often¬†not necessary but if¬†you do not¬†then the motor will rock around¬†tons¬†and make it¬†harder¬†to put in¬†.

At¬†now¬†you ought to¬†have¬†a totally¬†assembled rim with the motor¬†within the¬†middle. Lightly snug down all the nipples so¬†it’ll¬†be¬†able to¬†be balanced. *I highly recommend taking it to¬†knowledgeable¬†to urge¬†it balanced*. Spend¬†the cash¬†and obtain¬†it done right¬†the primary¬†time. I already knew¬†the way to¬†roll in the hay¬†and my school also¬†features a¬†wheel balance stand that¬†i used to be¬†ready to¬†use¬†for free of charge¬†.¬†i will be able to¬†not¬†re-evaluate¬†it¬†during this¬†tutorial because its not very beneficial to¬†examine¬†(you should watch a video). If¬†you are doing¬†decide¬†you would like¬†to undertake¬†it yourself, please do your research and see¬†the way to¬†roll in the hay¬†properly.

After you get the rim balanced then you’re almost done! The ebike kit I bought came with a brake rotor installed on the motor but I switched it out with the one from the Dolomite rim so¬†i might¬†have matching rotors between the front and back. Next¬†you’ll¬†want¬†to put in¬†the tire liner, tube, and tire. Pump up the tire to¬†the required¬†pressure and you’re¬†able to¬†go. Now¬†you’ll¬†test fit the rim on the bike¬†to form¬†sure everything fits¬†because it¬†should and¬†isn’t¬†out of balance.

You now have a reinforced rim which will handle the facility of the electrical motor!

Step 6: Remove All Components on the Bike

In this step¬†you’ll¬†be removing all the components on the bike and breaking it¬†right down to¬†the frame.¬†i like to recommend¬†doing this to avoid accidentally scratching or cutting something¬†you are not¬†alleged to¬†while you’re building the battery box.¬†it might¬†not be a fun day if you drop a tool and scrape¬†the great¬†rims or accidentally cut the brake cable.

I would personally remove everything¬†you’ll¬†to avoid interference when building the box. This includes: brake assembly, all cables, handle bars, wheels, pedal assembly w/ crank, seat, and even the stickers.

This is where thing get¬†quite¬†tricky. My battery box¬†goes¬†to be very wide so¬†I even have¬†to get rid of¬†my pedals.¬†are going to be¬†able to|i’ll”>¬†i will be able to¬†
also not have much of a use for them since my motor will be so powerful anyway. Anything under 1000W¬†would wish¬†the pedals since¬†you’ll¬†use the pedal assist¬†to urge¬†up hills. 3000W is¬†many¬†power¬†to urge¬†you everywhere¬†you would like¬†to travel¬†with ease. One thing¬†to notice¬†and¬†you’ll¬†need to¬†check are the bicycle laws in your state.¬†once you¬†remove the pedals from your bicycle,¬†it’s¬†not technically considered a bicycle anymore (it is now¬†an electrical¬†motorcycle). If your state considers it¬†an electrical¬†motorcycle then¬†you would possibly¬†need to¬†catch on¬†registered to ride it on the road.

This is something¬†you would possibly¬†want¬†to seem¬†into so¬†you’ll¬†avoid any unnecessary fines or your bike being impounded. Most cops probably won’t care if¬†you’re¬†obeying the law but¬†it’s¬†up to their discretion if it should legally¬†get on¬†the road or not. If¬†you are doing¬†got to¬†get your bike registered then¬†you’ll¬†need to¬†add a headlight, taillights, and blinkers. In my area it¬†shouldn’t¬†be¬†a drag¬†but if¬†i buy¬†a warning then¬†i will be able to¬†proceed with the registration process.

Step 7: Build a Battery Box

In this section¬†we’ll¬†specialise in¬†making¬†A battery¬†box to contain the batteries, controller, wires, and¬†the other¬†goodies we plan install. If you¬†return¬†a couple of¬†steps then¬†you’ll¬†remember¬†once you¬†made a template out of cardboard. That template¬†is that the¬†most vital¬†a part of¬†the build (assuming¬†you’ve got¬†the cardboard¬†the precise¬†way¬†you would like¬†your box¬†to show¬†out).

Our box¬†are going to be¬†made out of steel so I can weld it¬†to border¬†easily with¬†a typical¬†flux core welder.¬†you’ll¬†buy any gauge steel¬†you’d¬†like but¬†i like to recommend¬†getting something that¬†doesn’t¬†flex easily. During welding, the metal will want to warp¬†and alter¬†shape. I used some left over¬†rubbish¬†that was about 1/8th inch thick.¬†this is often¬†the right¬†thickness in my opinion because its thin enough¬†to stay¬†the bike relatively light, and thick enough¬†to face up to¬†the warmth¬†of welding. Plus, a thicker piece of metal¬†are going to be¬†more robust and¬†delay¬†over time.

Take this part one piece at a time.¬†don’t¬†attempt to¬†cut¬†all of them¬†out¬†directly¬†. Everyone makes mistakes and¬†you do not¬†want¬†to chop¬†everything out and it not fit right. Cut one piece¬†then¬†fit it up to the bike. If something doesn’t fit right then¬†you’ll¬†make small adjustments or cut more if needed. I worked on¬†each bit¬†quite¬†bit¬†to form¬†sure it fit exactly like I wanted. I traced the template, measured the lines¬†to form¬†sure¬†it had been¬†accurate,¬†then¬†cut it out with a cutting wheel.

There are many better ways¬†to chop¬†this out. If¬†you’ve got¬†access to a plasma cutter or water jet then definitely use that route.¬†you’ll¬†get much straighter lines and¬†it’ll¬†look¬†tons¬†better¬†within the¬†end.¬†I even have¬†had¬†tons¬†of experience cutting with a grinder so I¬†didn’t¬†have too many issues.

NOTE: Please use a straight edge when cutting stuff out.¬†it’ll¬†make sure you¬†have straight lines and¬†prevent¬†the time of guessing if something is straight.¬†i might¬†also advise¬†employing a¬†scribe¬†rather than¬†a marker. Scribes create small thin lines that are easy¬†to ascertain¬†and cut out.

A battery box¬†are often¬†either¬†very simple¬†or complicated¬†counting on¬†what¬†quite¬†design¬†you agree¬†on. I had some very tricky geometry¬†and that i¬†ended up having¬†to form¬†tons¬†of adjustments halfway through my build.¬†there’s¬†not much¬†you’ll¬†do about this but take¬†some time¬†. Measure twice and cut once.¬†rock bottom¬†and back of the battery box were easy.¬†it had been¬†the highest¬†and sides that gave me¬†the foremost¬†trouble.¬†the highest¬†of my box had some hard angles that I had¬†to figure¬†with, and it also contained buttons/gauges that needed to be cut out.¬†this is often¬†where the straight edge and square is your¬†ally¬†.

Once all of the metal pieces¬†are¬†cut out then¬†you’re¬†able to¬†begin welding them together. If¬†you are doing¬†not have a welder then¬†i like to recommend¬†trying¬†to seek out¬†a lover¬†that might¬†allow you to¬†borrow one or take it to¬†knowledgeable¬†that would¬†weld it up for you (some places¬†may additionally¬†be willing to¬†hire out¬†one). Before¬†you begin¬†welding,¬†confirm¬†all the metal is clean and sanded down. Any paint or rust on the metal will cause imperfections¬†within the¬†welds¬†and will¬†inhibit the metal from forming completely or create “good looking” welds. I used a 60 grit sanding disk on a grinder¬†to get rid of¬†all of the paint and surface rust without removing to much material,¬†then¬†wiped down all the metal with alcohol and a microfiber towel. After everything is clean,¬†you’re¬†able to¬†weld stuff together.

Begin with small tack welds¬†to carry¬†everything together.¬†attempt to¬†assemble¬†the entire¬†box with tack welds¬†then¬†return¬†and weld it up fully, Tack welds¬†don’t¬†produce¬†tons¬†of warmth¬†and can¬†help the metal keep its original shape¬†rather than¬†warping (it will still¬†attempt to¬†warp during actual welding but the tacks should hold its shape). When welding up the box¬†i noticed¬†that I¬†didn’t¬†need full length welds along the box and frame. Instead I did “stitch” welds along¬†the whole¬†box.¬†this may¬†give the box¬†quite¬†enough strength¬†to carry¬†up to rough riding.

If all the pieces are welded together then¬†you’re¬†able to¬†move onto¬†subsequent¬†step.

There were¬†a couple of¬†final touches that I added that¬†i might¬†wish to¬†share with you all. One extra thing that I added that¬†wasn’t¬†necessary was silicone between the frame and metal box. This was my method¬†of making¬†a smooth transition between the round tube frame¬†and therefore the¬†flat piece of metal (it also covered up my ugly welds). I bought a paintable silicone from Lowe’s that was meant for this purpose.¬†i think¬†it made¬†the ultimate¬†product look¬†such a lot¬†better and created a natural flow look between the metal. The second I did was round all¬†the sides¬†. I¬†didn’t¬†want¬†to possess¬†sharp metal corners that I could potentially cut myself on. I just used a grinder, small file, and sandpaper to¬†around the¬†edges to my liking. Take¬†some time¬†and spend equal attention on all edges.¬†this is often¬†mainly¬†to form¬†sure¬†the sting¬†radius is equal¬†round the¬†whole bike. If you rush one edge then¬†it’ll¬†be noticeable after the paint stage¬†and can¬†be¬†an enormous¬†hassle¬†to travel¬†back and fix.

The box should be fully finished now. All edges are clean, all gauges have cut outs¬†within the¬†metal, the welds are complete, and¬†you’re¬†satisfied¬†together with your¬†work.¬†you’re¬†now¬†able to¬†move the frame¬†to color¬†.

Step 8: Making Torque Arms

Torque arms are designed¬†to carry¬†the wheels¬†in situ¬†and¬†confirm¬†the axles¬†don’t¬†spin¬†within the¬†frame.¬†this is often¬†something¬†you’ll¬†need to¬†affect¬†if¬†you’ve got¬†tons¬†of torque. The slots¬†within the¬†frame that hold the stock bike wheel¬†aren’t¬†meant¬†for giant¬†amounts of power. If¬†you are doing¬†not have torque arms then you risk the axle shaft¬†rupture¬†otherwise you¬†could break the frame. Torque arms are there to bolt to the frame and¬†strengthen¬†the supports¬†in order that they¬†can handle¬†the additional¬†power.

To make the torque arms, I drew¬†an easy¬†outline of¬†the planning¬†I wanted onto¬†a bit¬†of paper.¬†you’ll¬†design this however¬†you’d¬†like as long¬†because it¬†is in a position¬†to suit¬†over the axle shaft and has enough room¬†for 2¬†bolts¬†to connect¬†to the frame (see pictures¬†to watch¬†how I designed mine). On¬†the rear¬†of most frames,¬†there’s¬†some extent¬†where it turns from round tubing to a flat piece of metal. The flat part is where¬†you’ll¬†put the torque arm. The thing to¬†consider¬†when designing torque arms is¬†to form¬†sure¬†it’s¬†a decent¬†fit over the axle shaft.¬†this is often¬†crucial for the structure to be extremely rigid. Once¬†you’ve got¬†your designs traced out on paper then¬†you’re¬†able to¬†transfer it to some metal. I had¬†an outsized¬†piece of 1/2 in aluminum lying around so¬†i made a decision¬†to use that. I took the drawing, cut it out, and used a glue¬†stick with¬†the metal. I found this method to be¬†very simple¬†and therefore the¬†glue is water soluble¬†thereto¬†is straightforward¬†to wash¬†off the metal. From here¬†you’ll¬†cut it¬†call at¬†any method¬†you select¬†. A band saw would be easiest but I just used a cutting wheel. If¬†you’re taking¬†a glance¬†at the axle shaft on the bike,¬†you’ll¬†see that¬†it’s¬†a cylindrical shape that was shaved down on two sides.¬†to chop¬†this shape out I took small drill bits and drilled along¬†the surface¬†of the drawn hole, punched the piece out,¬†then¬†filled down¬†the edges¬†. This was¬†the simplest¬†method¬†on behalf of me¬†with my limited amount of tools. The¬†last item¬†you would like¬†are two holes on¬†each bit¬†to connect¬†it to the frame. I marked out two holes, drilled them through the aluminum, transferred the holes onto the bike frame, and tapped the frame.¬†you’ve got¬†now created a torque arm¬†which will¬†delay¬†to anything you throw at it. From here¬†you’ll¬†just¬†pack up¬†the metal and make the torque arms look nice (clean up edges and paint).

Step 9: Assemble Handle Bars

Remove the brakes and grips from the stock handle bars and install the components that were provided to you in the kit.
You should have new grips, a throttle, display screen, and toggle for the display. Take your time and make sure everything lines up and is comfortable for you before you tighten it down. This is also a good time to start worrying about wire management. You will have a wire from the throttle, two wires from the brakes (shutoff for the motor), the wire between the toggle and display, headlight wires, and the wire from the display. I would organize your handlebar components with the wire path planned ahead. Use some zip ties to hold the wires into place and make it look clean.

Step 10: Remove All the Old Paint

You can remove the paint in multiple¬†alternative ways¬†.¬†you’ll¬†hand sand it, use paint stripper, or getting a sanding disk for a grinder (best method). Hand sanding takes way too long and consumes¬†tons¬†of sand paper. I¬†don’t¬†recommend this route unless¬†you’re keen on¬†spending hours on sanding. Paint stripper¬†may be a¬†good idea and works¬†alright¬†but¬†are often¬†an enormous¬†mess.¬†you’d¬†need¬†the specified¬†safety gloves, mask, and glasses before applying any of the chemicals. It goes on with a paint brush and literally eats the paint away. Downsides include its super messy (paint chips get everywhere), it burns when it touches you, and it¬†are often¬†costly¬†counting on¬†what materials you¬†have already got¬†.¬†employing a¬†grinder with a sanding attachment is¬†far and away¬†the fastest and¬†easiest method¬†to get rid of¬†the foremost¬†paint. It only takes one pass¬†to require¬†the paint¬†to reveal¬†metal. I just took my time, worked my way¬†round the¬†bike, and removed¬†the maximum amount¬†paint as I could. There are some areas on the bike that have really small crevices that the grinder¬†won’t¬†reach.¬†you’ll¬†hand sand these if¬†you would like¬†but I¬†didn’t¬†care that much so I left them and painted over it.

When painting¬†you would like¬†to form¬†sure the surface is smooth and even over¬†the entire¬†frame. Any imperfections¬†you create¬†during the prep process will show up¬†within the¬†paint.¬†it’ll¬†be very noticeable.

Step 11: Paint the Bike to the Desired Color

The first thing¬†you would like¬†to try to to¬†is¬†detect¬†a paint and primer. I used just regular¬†paint¬†that you simply¬†can purchase¬†from any auto parts or¬†ironmongery shop¬†.¬†you only¬†want¬†to form¬†sure its an enamel¬†sort of¬†paint (this¬†is especially¬†used for metal¬†and out of doors¬†objects). As for the primer, I suggest a filler type if its available¬†to cover¬†any small scratches that the sander may have made. Paint also comes in various textures so¬†you’ll¬†got to¬†just see what¬†you wish¬†and pick from there. The caps on¬†the highest¬†of¬†paint¬†bottles typically show¬†the colour¬†and texture.

The brand of paint¬†is extremely¬†important when choosing what¬†to travel¬†with.¬†don’t¬†cheap out on this part. Buy¬†a top quality¬†paint¬†which will¬†last¬†and appearance¬†good. Cheap paint almost never works well for anyone.¬†it’ll¬†look good for¬†the primary¬†week¬†on the other hand¬†it’d¬†start to¬†peel off¬†or fade. Rustoleum¬†may be a¬†alright¬†trusted brand¬†and may¬†be found almost anywhere. I also suggest using¬†an equivalent¬†brand for both primer, paint, and clear coat.

*Use a filter mask so¬†you’re¬†not inhaling fumes*

Now¬†you would like¬†to seek out¬†an appropriate place¬†to color¬†.¬†i might¬†not¬†do that¬†inside a closed garage with other things nearby.¬†you’ll¬†potentially¬†recover from¬†spray on things (it¬†is tough¬†to urge¬†off and¬†an enormous¬†hassle). If¬†you are doing¬†paint¬†during a¬†closed area then¬†confirm¬†you cover everything with a tarp or blanket. This also goes¬†along side¬†spraying outside on a windy day.¬†confirm¬†whatever is down wind¬†is roofed¬†up.¬†the most¬†thing¬†you would like¬†to think about¬†is how¬†you would like¬†to color¬†the bike. If you set the frame directly on a box then you wont get paint on¬†rock bottom¬†side¬†and can¬†need to¬†return¬†to color¬†this afterwards. If possible then hang the frame from the ceiling with thin safety wire.¬†you’ll¬†thread it through any small hole on the frame and hang it up .¬†this permits¬†you¬†to steer¬†round the¬†whole frame¬†and obtain¬†all¬†the edges¬†and crevices. I used a engine hoist with¬†a sequence¬†and lifted the¬†frame¬†the air.

Now¬†you’re¬†able to¬†start painting.¬†confirm¬†the metal is cleaned off and wiped down with alcohol if¬†it’s¬†not already. I suggest reading the can and following the directions on there. The people¬†within the¬†paint factory worked really hard fine tuning those directions so don’t let their pain and suffering¬†enter¬†vain. Note the temperature¬†you ought to¬†be painting at (this¬†is extremely¬†important), Distance¬†you ought to¬†hold the can, and time between each coat. Go light on each coat and¬†confirm¬†you let it dry before¬†subsequent¬†one. If you apply to much paint will run¬†and make¬†lines in your paint.¬†it’ll¬†find yourself¬†looking¬†sort of a¬†dried droplet¬†within the¬†final product if you let it run.¬†confirm¬†you begin¬†with the primer first and fully cover¬†the whole¬†frame. Once¬†you’re¬†through with¬†the primer then¬†advance¬†to your paint.
After the paint is dry then¬†you’ll¬†worry about touch ups. If there are any small areas that¬†didn’t¬†get paint or scratches then¬†you’ll¬†spray some paint into a cup and use a paint brush¬†to color¬†it onto the bike. Note:¬†this is often¬†just for¬†small mistakes or small areas. If¬†you’ve got¬†massive amounts of drip marks or bubbling¬†within the¬†paint then¬†you ought to¬†consider sanding the bike down again and¬†ranging from¬†scratch. There are some tips online about fixing paint with wet sanding and blending if it comes¬†right down to¬†it.

Step 12: Assemble the Bike

After the paint is dry and everything looks good then¬†you’re¬†able to¬†assemble the bike.¬†i might¬†start by attaching the wheels and torquing them¬†right down to¬†the right¬†specifications (Don’t forget the torque arms!!). Then put the fully assembled handle bars on and tighten them down. The bike should now be¬†ready to¬†come around¬†which should make it easier¬†to figure¬†on.

Now¬†plow ahead¬†and install the brakes.¬†i might¬†do that¬†early because the bike¬†are going to be¬†light, and¬†you would like¬†to select¬†up the bike to rotate the wheels¬†to form¬†sure the brakes are dialed in correctly. Brakes are¬†one among¬†the foremost¬†crucial parts of the bike so¬†confirm¬†you¬†search¬†videos on¬†the way to¬†roll in the hay¬†correctly. Stopping on a 3000W bike¬†is extremely¬†important (if¬†you’ll¬†be going fast).

The next step is¬†to put in¬†the batteries and connect everything together. When installing everything, consider wire management as¬†you’re employed¬†. There are¬†an honest¬†amount of wires and¬†it’ll¬†get very complicated very quickly. Just take¬†some time¬†and install one wire at a time. Attach your batteries to the motor controller and¬†confirm¬†that you simply¬†don’t touch¬†the 2¬†leads together. Then connect the motor to the controller (should be three large gauge wires and a connector). The box¬†may be a¬†tight fit so¬†attempt to¬†find an optimal¬†thanks to¬†connect everything¬†which will¬†be easy to access at a later time. Before¬†you set¬†the edges¬†on the battery box,¬†confirm¬†everything works¬†because it¬†should¬†and perhaps¬†take it for¬†a brief¬†test ride.

Step 13: Add Lights and Decoration

Adding lights is optional but highly recommended¬†to reinforce¬†the visibility of the bike¬†in the dark¬†and make things safer. I bought¬†alittle¬†set of lights off of amazon that have a¬†inbuilt¬†converter¬†to simply accept¬†the 60V batteries (you can check them out here). The motor controller I used had a connector that was specifically meant for a headlight so¬†it had been¬†extremely easy. If your controller doesn’t have a connector then¬†you’ll¬†need to¬†tap into the battery¬†results in¬†connect the lights. I also recommend adding some tail lights to¬†the rear¬†so people¬†are going to be¬†ready to¬†see you night. I just used a pair of LED strips I had lying around and a voltage converter to bring the voltage¬†right down to¬†a manageable 12 volts. I also added a voltage indicator to both batteries and on/off switches¬†to make sure¬†the batteries are completely shut off when not¬†getting used¬†.

Other than headlights and taillights,¬†this is often¬†really where¬†you’ll¬†let the imagination flow.¬†you’ll¬†just about¬†add anything to the bike¬†you would like¬†. I’ve seen under glow lights¬†within the¬†frame, lights¬†within the¬†spokes of the tires, and even laser engraved side panels. I chose¬†to not¬†do much to the looks because I prefer a clean, simple look.

Step 14: Buy Quality Riding Gear

This section has nothing to try to to with the particular bike build but its something that I highly recommend looking into before you begin riding on the road with traffic. Riding gear is far and away one among the foremost important and overlooked things when preparing to ride. It ensures rider safety and is important when riding with other cars on the roads.

The first thing you’ll want to urge may be a good quality helmet. don’t cheap out on this part. A helmet could save your life and you would like one which will preform well if it comes right down to it. I also recommend getting a motorbike helmet for the extra safety. you’ll want to seem for helmets that are DOT rated in order that they suits road and safety regulations. a couple of additional items you’ll check out are gloves and a riding jacket if you’d like. they’re not as necessary because the helmet but would help reduce road rash.

When riding the bike, just remember to always wear long trousers and closed toe shoes (its an unspoken but smart rule to follow).

Step 15: Enjoy the Ride

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