DIY Eletric Bike

Supplies:

– Donor bicycle

Note: This can be any bike you want but I bought a fat tire Mongoose dolomite (for the looks).

– E-bike motor and controller kit

– Sheet metal to make a battery box

– Sheet metal working tools: cutting wheel, welder, drill, drill bits, step bits, PPE

– Battery packs (Check out my other instructable that explains how to make your own battery)

– Headlights and tail lights

– On/Off switch to cut off power to the battery for charging

– Primer and Spray paint

– Electrical connectors (XT60 connectors, solder/head shrink, charging plugs, etc.)

Step 1: Getting a Bicycle for the Base

Bicycles are available all shapes, sizes and designs . If you do not have already got a bicycle then you’re getting to want to shop for a replacement one. you’ll use any style bike you would like but there are a couple of belongings you will want to stay in mind when picking a motorcycle out. First, you would like a steel framed bike. Our battery box are going to be made out of sheet so we’d like something we will weld easily. If you accompany an aluminum or composite frame then it’ll be harder to secure A battery box. Also, bikes that aren’t steel tend to be far more expensive. Our next requirement is that you simply need a frame that has room for the batteries. I custom built A battery to specifically slot in my bike frame (you can do that too if you inspect my battery build here).

Since this is often a budget ebike, I ended up buying an inexpensive donor bike from a emporium . The bike I used is named the Mongoose Hitch/Dolomite. I don’t recommend this if you’ve got money to spend on a top quality bike or have already got an honest bike to start out with. This bike isn’t meant to handle all the strain and strain of a motor which will go 50 MPH. i will be able to be beefing up parts of the bike that I can identify as a weak points, but it’s still cheaply produced. i will be able to also always be wearing safety gear just in case of an accident.

A little bit about the Dolomite:

I have always loved the looks of a fat tire bike. they need a really rugged and badass look to them. Out of all the fat tire bikes i used to be ready to find online, the dolomite appeared like the simplest option with a comparatively cheap price. Overall it’s well built bike and Mongoose may be a reputable company. This doesn’t mean the bike is prepared to handle all the additional power and torque of the electrical motor. The Dolomite features a 26″ x 4″ tire which is very large compared to your average road/mountain bike. it’s also fitted with disk brakes which may be a necessity. If we decide to go fast then we’d like to possess the stopping power to back it up. Overall, the bike looks amazing and may be a decent platform to create off of.

On the acute budget:

If you’re really trying to find a budget option then i might suggest finding out used bikes on FB marketplace or even even craigslist. you’d be surprised the sorts of deals you’ll find on there. a number of those bikes might need a touch work like new tires or inner tubes, but they will be very solid. albeit the paint is bad then its not super important since we’ll be painting the bike within the end. As long as it isn’t completely rusted out then it’ll be fine. you’d need to do a touch more research for this feature but you’d save tons of cash and have an excellent bike. In hindsight, I wish i might have searched for a second hand bike first rather than buying fresh .

Step 2: Picking Out a Electric Motor and Controller

Picking out the Motor and controller is actually the guts and brain of the bike. they’re vital and will be checked out carefully. If this is often your first electric vehicle build then i might highly suggest buying a kit (like I did). They piece everything together for you so there’s no guessing on which controller will work with which motor. Also, buying a kit isn’t that far more expensive than buying the components separately (In certain cases but this relies on brands and power levels). Name brand ebike companies will charge an arm and leg for parts but this is often unnecessary. All the needed components are often bought from places like eBay, Ali express, or Amazon. a standard misconception with these websites is that the parts are cheap and unreliable. Truth is, a number of the parts are hit and miss. you only got to determine what parts are worth buying. A general rule of thumb to me is buy mid range price levels. which will be your best bet to urge decent parts. there’s a touch truth within the saying “you get what you buy .” I even have made this error and trust me once I say never accompany the most cost effective thing out there. it’ll presumably be junk and not work very long. Hint: most name brand suppliers resell cheap eBay parts just with their name thereon (they are essentially an equivalent parts).

I went with a kit as against piecing it together for this project since i used to be doing a better wattage build and didn’t want to risk blowing anything up. The kit I purchased was from a vendor called “Theebikemotor” on amazon (can be seen here). The kit was around $600 dollars which appeared like a good price to me. It also came with everything I needed and also included a pleasant LCD display that would display speeds and power levels.

If you are doing not accompany a kit then these are the most parts you’ll need:

Hub motor (if you purchase just a motor then you’ll got to re-lace your wheel)
Motor controller – The motor and controller will got to have matching voltages (unless you’re getting to over volt and over amp but please don’t do that on your first build)
Throttle
Optional parts:

Pedal Assist system (if you accompany a lower wattage motor)
LCD display (looks cool)
Lights
The options of companies and parts to shop for are endless, so I just recommend browsing and researching before you purchase anything. an excellent sign is positive reviews on the merchandise . Do a fast google search on the corporate and see what people are saying about the merchandise likelihood is that that somebody out there has bought an equivalent kit and posted their experience on a web forum somewhere.

Step 3: Getting a Battery Pack

Buying one:

The are a couple of main belongings you want to seem at when buying a prebuilt battery pack. What cells are in it? what percentage volts within the pack putting out? What are the amp hours of the pack? And, what’s the form of the pack?

You can use a spread of various cells but i like to recommend 18650 cells. they’re the foremost widely used cells for hobbies like this. they need been tested and work alright in ebike applications. Next you would like to seek out A battery pack that puts out the specified voltage recommended on the motor and controller (these should all match). If you’ve got a 48V motor, then your controller should be 48V and you ought to have a 48V pack. The amp hours are the sole a part of the pack that may not super detrimental (don’t get this confused with what percentage amps the pack can put out). This just means what percentage cells are in parallel there are and the way long will the pack run until it’s out of juice. If you’re concerned with space on the bike then get a lower Ah battery. you’ll just got to anticipate more charging and therefore the packs will die out faster. The last item you’ll want to think about is that the shape of the battery. Ask yourself, where will this be happening the bike? you do not want to shop for an excessively big battery which will not fit easy. It’s better to be too small during this case. you’ll always add more batteries later if you would like and have the space .

I highly suggest building your own battery. you’ll economize ,it is bound to slot in the frame, and you’ll stand behind your work and say you built everything from scratch. you’ve got such a lot more control over building your own battery pack rather than purchasing one online.

Step 4: Getting a Rough Outline Design

Assuming you have already got your battery built then you’re able to start planning the battery box.

Some tools and materials I recommend:

box cutter and exacto knife
cardboard or crafting foam
packing tape
measuring tape
straight edge
Building A battery box might be done a couple of alternative ways you’ll either map it out with cardboard, model it on a CAD software, or wing it. I highly suggest the cardboard idea. It’s an old car trick I’ve learned over the years. you’re taking the cardboard, cut a touch bit at a time, continuously attempt to fit it on the bike, and tape it into place once you catch on to the form you would like . It basically mimics how the metal will fit when its all said and done. this is often great because you’re ready to start over if you mess something up or consider something better. the simplest part is once you finally get the planning you would like you’ll pull of the cardboard and use it as a stencil on the metal.

One of the most important challenges was fitting everything into the battery box. I not only wanted the batteries in there, but I also wanted it to contain all my wiring, controller, and a converter for the lights. once I built my batteries, I also had this in mind so I even have been planning from the start . I finally found an orientation i used to be proud of so i made a decision to create around that. (see pics)

I went through numerous different designs until I found out what I wanted. this is often an excellent time to plan out wiring paths, switches, and other additional belongings you may choose. Once you narrow the metal then it’ll be really hard to repair and you’ll need to start over. I also suggest ensuring it’ll suit your batteries easily while its still made out of cardboard.

After you’ve got the box fully built out of cardboard and taped into the bike then I suggest sitting thereon and ensuring its comfortable between your legs. My box is extremely wide so i used to be concerned with the metal digging into my leg. I ended up making some adjustments which made it easier and also made it look cooler. within the pictures you’ll be ready to see how I designed my box.

Note: this may already be a really heavy bike, so I suggest building your battery box as slim as possible. attempt to make the box fit round the batteries and controller tightly. Extra room means more weight in metal and allows the batteries to bounce around while riding.

Step 5: Hub Motor Install

This was far and away the worst a part of the build and was completely unanticipated. Also take notes if you opt to travel with this particular kit.

When I received this kit, it came with a motor and rim combo (everything was already mounted and prepared to go). curiously enough , the rim width was a special size than dolomite rim. The rim width on the web site didn’t match what I received within the mail. it had been almost an in. thinner than it had been alleged to be. This may need been an error on the corporate but I didn’t want to affect the return process. My solution was to only use the dolomite wheel. The wheel that came within the kit was also a special color than the dolomite one so within the end it understanding (matte vs gloss).

Step one was to unlace the rim that came within the kit. *Take pictures of both rims before hand so you recognize lace and motor orientation*. Keep track of everything so you’ll put it back together the precise same way. to require apart the rim, its as simple as removing the nipples from the spokes. you’ll just take a flat-head screwdriver and switch them out. do that to both rims and keep track of both sets of spokes and nipples. The Dolomite also will have the tire, tire liner, and tube installed so remove those also . After you’re taking all the spokes out you ought to be left with two bare rims, a motor, and a spool with gears.

This is where things began to get difficult. The holes for the nipples on the Dolomite were too small for the ebike kit nipples. This meant that I had to drill out the holes on the Dolomite. This wasn’t an enormous deal until I took the fully assembled wheel to urge balanced. The shop told me it had been not safe enough to ride and that they wouldn’t balance it for legal reasons. Their fear was that the spokes would pull right out of the rim from the torque. I then decided to put in washers round the rim to offer the nipples more area to grip onto (they also are steel so it should be more rigid than the aluminum rim). FYI: I even have been riding my bike for a couple of months now and therefore the wheel is holding up great.

Take the dolomite rim and motor and start lacing. confirm you review the orientation of the lace from the photographs you took. I found it easiest to lie the rim and motor on their side to urge the primary spokes started. When installing the nipples, don’t tighten them down all the way. you simply got to get the primary threads on so it holds in situ . The motor should be loose until you get all the spokes installed. Once you get the primary few spokes in, you’ll stand the rim up and begin working your way around. i might suggest working round the rim sort of a clock. Start at 12 and move to three , then to six and eventually 9. this may keep the motor tension even around all the sided and help keep it centered on the rim. this is often not necessary but if you do not then the motor will rock around tons and make it harder to put in .

At now you ought to have a totally assembled rim with the motor within the middle. Lightly snug down all the nipples so it’ll be able to be balanced. *I highly recommend taking it to knowledgeable to urge it balanced*. Spend the cash and obtain it done right the primary time. I already knew the way to roll in the hay and my school also features a wheel balance stand that i used to be ready to use for free of charge i will be able to not re-evaluate it during this tutorial because its not very beneficial to examine (you should watch a video). If you are doing decide you would like to undertake it yourself, please do your research and see the way to roll in the hay properly.

After you get the rim balanced then you’re almost done! The ebike kit I bought came with a brake rotor installed on the motor but I switched it out with the one from the Dolomite rim so i might have matching rotors between the front and back. Next you’ll want to put in the tire liner, tube, and tire. Pump up the tire to the required pressure and you’re able to go. Now you’ll test fit the rim on the bike to form sure everything fits because it should and isn’t out of balance.

You now have a reinforced rim which will handle the facility of the electrical motor!

Step 6: Remove All Components on the Bike

In this step you’ll be removing all the components on the bike and breaking it right down to the frame. i like to recommend doing this to avoid accidentally scratching or cutting something you are not alleged to while you’re building the battery box. it might not be a fun day if you drop a tool and scrape the great rims or accidentally cut the brake cable.

I would personally remove everything you’ll to avoid interference when building the box. This includes: brake assembly, all cables, handle bars, wheels, pedal assembly w/ crank, seat, and even the stickers.

This is where thing get quite tricky. My battery box goes to be very wide so I even have to get rid of my pedals. are going to be able to|i’ll”> i will be able to 
also not have much of a use for them since my motor will be so powerful anyway. Anything under 1000W would wish the pedals since you’ll use the pedal assist to urge up hills. 3000W is many power to urge you everywhere you would like to travel with ease. One thing to notice and you’ll need to check are the bicycle laws in your state. once you remove the pedals from your bicycle, it’s not technically considered a bicycle anymore (it is now an electrical motorcycle). If your state considers it an electrical motorcycle then you would possibly need to catch on registered to ride it on the road.

This is something you would possibly want to seem into so you’ll avoid any unnecessary fines or your bike being impounded. Most cops probably won’t care if you’re obeying the law but it’s up to their discretion if it should legally get on the road or not. If you are doing got to get your bike registered then you’ll need to add a headlight, taillights, and blinkers. In my area it shouldn’t be a drag but if i buy a warning then i will be able to proceed with the registration process.

Step 7: Build a Battery Box

In this section we’ll specialise in making A battery box to contain the batteries, controller, wires, and the other goodies we plan install. If you return a couple of steps then you’ll remember once you made a template out of cardboard. That template is that the most vital a part of the build (assuming you’ve got the cardboard the precise way you would like your box to show out).

Our box are going to be made out of steel so I can weld it to border easily with a typical flux core welder. you’ll buy any gauge steel you’d like but i like to recommend getting something that doesn’t flex easily. During welding, the metal will want to warp and alter shape. I used some left over rubbish that was about 1/8th inch thick. this is often the right thickness in my opinion because its thin enough to stay the bike relatively light, and thick enough to face up to the warmth of welding. Plus, a thicker piece of metal are going to be more robust and delay over time.

Take this part one piece at a time. don’t attempt to cut all of them out directly . Everyone makes mistakes and you do not want to chop everything out and it not fit right. Cut one piece then fit it up to the bike. If something doesn’t fit right then you’ll make small adjustments or cut more if needed. I worked on each bit quite bit to form sure it fit exactly like I wanted. I traced the template, measured the lines to form sure it had been accurate, then cut it out with a cutting wheel.

There are many better ways to chop this out. If you’ve got access to a plasma cutter or water jet then definitely use that route. you’ll get much straighter lines and it’ll look tons better within the end. I even have had tons of experience cutting with a grinder so I didn’t have too many issues.

NOTE: Please use a straight edge when cutting stuff out. it’ll make sure you have straight lines and prevent the time of guessing if something is straight. i might also advise employing a scribe rather than a marker. Scribes create small thin lines that are easy to ascertain and cut out.

A battery box are often either very simple or complicated counting on what quite design you agree on. I had some very tricky geometry and that i ended up having to form tons of adjustments halfway through my build. there’s not much you’ll do about this but take some time . Measure twice and cut once. rock bottom and back of the battery box were easy. it had been the highest and sides that gave me the foremost trouble. the highest of my box had some hard angles that I had to figure with, and it also contained buttons/gauges that needed to be cut out. this is often where the straight edge and square is your ally .

Once all of the metal pieces are cut out then you’re able to begin welding them together. If you are doing not have a welder then i like to recommend trying to seek out a lover that might allow you to borrow one or take it to knowledgeable that would weld it up for you (some places may additionally be willing to hire out one). Before you begin welding, confirm all the metal is clean and sanded down. Any paint or rust on the metal will cause imperfections within the welds and will inhibit the metal from forming completely or create “good looking” welds. I used a 60 grit sanding disk on a grinder to get rid of all of the paint and surface rust without removing to much material, then wiped down all the metal with alcohol and a microfiber towel. After everything is clean, you’re able to weld stuff together.

Begin with small tack welds to carry everything together. attempt to assemble the entire box with tack welds then return and weld it up fully, Tack welds don’t produce tons of warmth and can help the metal keep its original shape rather than warping (it will still attempt to warp during actual welding but the tacks should hold its shape). When welding up the box i noticed that I didn’t need full length welds along the box and frame. Instead I did “stitch” welds along the whole box. this may give the box quite enough strength to carry up to rough riding.

If all the pieces are welded together then you’re able to move onto subsequent step.

There were a couple of final touches that I added that i might wish to share with you all. One extra thing that I added that wasn’t necessary was silicone between the frame and metal box. This was my method of making a smooth transition between the round tube frame and therefore the flat piece of metal (it also covered up my ugly welds). I bought a paintable silicone from Lowe’s that was meant for this purpose. i think it made the ultimate product look such a lot better and created a natural flow look between the metal. The second I did was round all the sides . I didn’t want to possess sharp metal corners that I could potentially cut myself on. I just used a grinder, small file, and sandpaper to around the edges to my liking. Take some time and spend equal attention on all edges. this is often mainly to form sure the sting radius is equal round the whole bike. If you rush one edge then it’ll be noticeable after the paint stage and can be an enormous hassle to travel back and fix.

The box should be fully finished now. All edges are clean, all gauges have cut outs within the metal, the welds are complete, and you’re satisfied together with your work. you’re now able to move the frame to color .

Step 8: Making Torque Arms

Torque arms are designed to carry the wheels in situ and confirm the axles don’t spin within the frame. this is often something you’ll need to affect if you’ve got tons of torque. The slots within the frame that hold the stock bike wheel aren’t meant for giant amounts of power. If you are doing not have torque arms then you risk the axle shaft rupture otherwise you could break the frame. Torque arms are there to bolt to the frame and strengthen the supports in order that they can handle the additional power.

To make the torque arms, I drew an easy outline of the planning I wanted onto a bit of paper. you’ll design this however you’d like as long because it is in a position to suit over the axle shaft and has enough room for 2 bolts to connect to the frame (see pictures to watch how I designed mine). On the rear of most frames, there’s some extent where it turns from round tubing to a flat piece of metal. The flat part is where you’ll put the torque arm. The thing to consider when designing torque arms is to form sure it’s a decent fit over the axle shaft. this is often crucial for the structure to be extremely rigid. Once you’ve got your designs traced out on paper then you’re able to transfer it to some metal. I had an outsized piece of 1/2 in aluminum lying around so i made a decision to use that. I took the drawing, cut it out, and used a glue stick with the metal. I found this method to be very simple and therefore the glue is water soluble thereto is straightforward to wash off the metal. From here you’ll cut it call at any method you select . A band saw would be easiest but I just used a cutting wheel. If you’re taking a glance at the axle shaft on the bike, you’ll see that it’s a cylindrical shape that was shaved down on two sides. to chop this shape out I took small drill bits and drilled along the surface of the drawn hole, punched the piece out, then filled down the edges . This was the simplest method on behalf of me with my limited amount of tools. The last item you would like are two holes on each bit to connect it to the frame. I marked out two holes, drilled them through the aluminum, transferred the holes onto the bike frame, and tapped the frame. you’ve got now created a torque arm which will delay to anything you throw at it. From here you’ll just pack up the metal and make the torque arms look nice (clean up edges and paint).

Step 9: Assemble Handle Bars

Remove the brakes and grips from the stock handle bars and install the components that were provided to you in the kit.
You should have new grips, a throttle, display screen, and toggle for the display. Take your time and make sure everything lines up and is comfortable for you before you tighten it down. This is also a good time to start worrying about wire management. You will have a wire from the throttle, two wires from the brakes (shutoff for the motor), the wire between the toggle and display, headlight wires, and the wire from the display. I would organize your handlebar components with the wire path planned ahead. Use some zip ties to hold the wires into place and make it look clean.

Step 10: Remove All the Old Paint

You can remove the paint in multiple alternative ways you’ll hand sand it, use paint stripper, or getting a sanding disk for a grinder (best method). Hand sanding takes way too long and consumes tons of sand paper. I don’t recommend this route unless you’re keen on spending hours on sanding. Paint stripper may be a good idea and works alright but are often an enormous mess. you’d need the specified safety gloves, mask, and glasses before applying any of the chemicals. It goes on with a paint brush and literally eats the paint away. Downsides include its super messy (paint chips get everywhere), it burns when it touches you, and it are often costly counting on what materials you have already got employing a grinder with a sanding attachment is far and away the fastest and easiest method to get rid of the foremost paint. It only takes one pass to require the paint to reveal metal. I just took my time, worked my way round the bike, and removed the maximum amount paint as I could. There are some areas on the bike that have really small crevices that the grinder won’t reach. you’ll hand sand these if you would like but I didn’t care that much so I left them and painted over it.

When painting you would like to form sure the surface is smooth and even over the entire frame. Any imperfections you create during the prep process will show up within the paint. it’ll be very noticeable.

Step 11: Paint the Bike to the Desired Color

The first thing you would like to try to to is detect a paint and primer. I used just regular paint that you simply can purchase from any auto parts or ironmongery shop you only want to form sure its an enamel sort of paint (this is especially used for metal and out of doors objects). As for the primer, I suggest a filler type if its available to cover any small scratches that the sander may have made. Paint also comes in various textures so you’ll got to just see what you wish and pick from there. The caps on the highest of paint bottles typically show the colour and texture.

The brand of paint is extremely important when choosing what to travel with. don’t cheap out on this part. Buy a top quality paint which will last and appearance good. Cheap paint almost never works well for anyone. it’ll look good for the primary week on the other hand it’d start to peel off or fade. Rustoleum may be a alright trusted brand and may be found almost anywhere. I also suggest using an equivalent brand for both primer, paint, and clear coat.

*Use a filter mask so you’re not inhaling fumes*

Now you would like to seek out an appropriate place to color i might not do that inside a closed garage with other things nearby. you’ll potentially recover from spray on things (it is tough to urge off and an enormous hassle). If you are doing paint during a closed area then confirm you cover everything with a tarp or blanket. This also goes along side spraying outside on a windy day. confirm whatever is down wind is roofed up. the most thing you would like to think about is how you would like to color the bike. If you set the frame directly on a box then you wont get paint on rock bottom side and can need to return to color this afterwards. If possible then hang the frame from the ceiling with thin safety wire. you’ll thread it through any small hole on the frame and hang it up . this permits you to steer round the whole frame and obtain all the edges and crevices. I used a engine hoist with a sequence and lifted the frame the air.

Now you’re able to start painting. confirm the metal is cleaned off and wiped down with alcohol if it’s not already. I suggest reading the can and following the directions on there. The people within the paint factory worked really hard fine tuning those directions so don’t let their pain and suffering enter vain. Note the temperature you ought to be painting at (this is extremely important), Distance you ought to hold the can, and time between each coat. Go light on each coat and confirm you let it dry before subsequent one. If you apply to much paint will run and make lines in your paint. it’ll find yourself looking sort of a dried droplet within the final product if you let it run. confirm you begin with the primer first and fully cover the whole frame. Once you’re through with the primer then advance to your paint.
After the paint is dry then you’ll worry about touch ups. If there are any small areas that didn’t get paint or scratches then you’ll spray some paint into a cup and use a paint brush to color it onto the bike. Note: this is often just for small mistakes or small areas. If you’ve got massive amounts of drip marks or bubbling within the paint then you ought to consider sanding the bike down again and ranging from scratch. There are some tips online about fixing paint with wet sanding and blending if it comes right down to it.

Step 12: Assemble the Bike

After the paint is dry and everything looks good then you’re able to assemble the bike. i might start by attaching the wheels and torquing them right down to the right specifications (Don’t forget the torque arms!!). Then put the fully assembled handle bars on and tighten them down. The bike should now be ready to come around which should make it easier to figure on.

Now plow ahead and install the brakes. i might do that early because the bike are going to be light, and you would like to select up the bike to rotate the wheels to form sure the brakes are dialed in correctly. Brakes are one among the foremost crucial parts of the bike so confirm you search videos on the way to roll in the hay correctly. Stopping on a 3000W bike is extremely important (if you’ll be going fast).

The next step is to put in the batteries and connect everything together. When installing everything, consider wire management as you’re employed . There are an honest amount of wires and it’ll get very complicated very quickly. Just take some time and install one wire at a time. Attach your batteries to the motor controller and confirm that you simply don’t touch the 2 leads together. Then connect the motor to the controller (should be three large gauge wires and a connector). The box may be a tight fit so attempt to find an optimal thanks to connect everything which will be easy to access at a later time. Before you set the edges on the battery box, confirm everything works because it should and perhaps take it for a brief test ride.

Step 13: Add Lights and Decoration

Adding lights is optional but highly recommended to reinforce the visibility of the bike in the dark and make things safer. I bought alittle set of lights off of amazon that have a inbuilt converter to simply accept the 60V batteries (you can check them out here). The motor controller I used had a connector that was specifically meant for a headlight so it had been extremely easy. If your controller doesn’t have a connector then you’ll need to tap into the battery results in connect the lights. I also recommend adding some tail lights to the rear so people are going to be ready to see you night. I just used a pair of LED strips I had lying around and a voltage converter to bring the voltage right down to a manageable 12 volts. I also added a voltage indicator to both batteries and on/off switches to make sure the batteries are completely shut off when not getting used .

Other than headlights and taillights, this is often really where you’ll let the imagination flow. you’ll just about add anything to the bike you would like . I’ve seen under glow lights within the frame, lights within the spokes of the tires, and even laser engraved side panels. I chose to not do much to the looks because I prefer a clean, simple look.

Step 14: Buy Quality Riding Gear

This section has nothing to try to to with the particular bike build but its something that I highly recommend looking into before you begin riding on the road with traffic. Riding gear is far and away one among the foremost important and overlooked things when preparing to ride. It ensures rider safety and is important when riding with other cars on the roads.

The first thing you’ll want to urge may be a good quality helmet. don’t cheap out on this part. A helmet could save your life and you would like one which will preform well if it comes right down to it. I also recommend getting a motorbike helmet for the extra safety. you’ll want to seem for helmets that are DOT rated in order that they suits road and safety regulations. a couple of additional items you’ll check out are gloves and a riding jacket if you’d like. they’re not as necessary because the helmet but would help reduce road rash.

When riding the bike, just remember to always wear long trousers and closed toe shoes (its an unspoken but smart rule to follow).

Step 15: Enjoy the Ride

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