Do You Want To Have Your Own Chess Table ??

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Materials:
2′ √ó 2′ √ó 1/2″ plywood
1/8″ √ó 1 1/4″ steel angle – 3 foot lengths √ó 2
1 √ó 4 pine board – 4 feet long
1 √ó 6 pine board – 6 feet long
1 √ó 8 pine board – 2 feet long
2 √ó 6 pine board – 8 feet long
2″ √ó 2″ tile (black and white, sold in 12″ squares held together with glue)
Steel mending plates and corner brackets
Construction adhesive
Two in one wood stain and polyurethane
Wood glue
Wood filler
Citric acid
Gun blue
Metal clear coat
Screws (1/2″, 3/4″ and 1 1/4″)
Furniture glides
Cabinet handles

Tools:
Mitre saw (with both a wood cutting blade and a metal cutting blade)
Table saw
Drill press
Brad nailer
Drill
Sander
File
Dremel rotary tool
Paint brush

Step 2: Build the Top

Separate the tiles, and scrape off any glue¬†that’s¬†left on¬†the sides¬†.¬†you’ll¬†need 32¬†of every¬†for your chessboard. Put pieces of steel angle along two adjoining edges of the plywood. Make an eight tile √ó eight tile square, pressed tight against¬†the 2¬†pieces of steel angle. Remove the steel angle and measure the space between the tile edge¬†and therefore the¬†fringe of¬†the plywood. Now, measure from the far¬†fringe of¬†the tile to¬†the sting¬†of the plywood and add your first measurement¬†to the present¬†new length¬†which¬†will¬†offer you¬†your total length for your plywood. Verify¬†the opposite¬†direction¬†also¬†to form¬†sure¬†it’s¬†square. (I will use the measurements I got from here on but¬†confirm¬†you are doing¬†this step yourself because your tile size may vary slightly and everything depends on an accurate measurement¬†of these¬†. Adjust any measurements I give accordingly.)
Use a table saw¬†to chop¬†your plywood into a 17 1/2″ square.

Put a metal cutting blade in your mitre saw and cut the ends of your steel angles at 45 degrees, 17 5/8″ long, from long point to long point. Use a file¬†to wash¬†up any burrs from cutting. Use a drill press to drill holes along¬†the middle¬†of the steel angles every two inches¬†ranging from¬†the center and measuring outwards.¬†do that¬†along¬†each side¬†of the steel. The holes should be just¬†large enough¬†for the 3/4″ screws¬†to suit¬†through.

Temporarily attach the steel angles to the plywood with¬†a few¬†screws. Lay out your tiles inside this square,¬†within the¬†order¬†you would like¬†them,¬†to form¬†sure everything fits properly. If all¬†is sweet¬†, remove the tiles, put down¬†a skinny¬†layer of construction adhesive and replace the tiles on top. If¬†a number of¬†your tiles are¬†a rather¬†different size,¬†it’s¬†better to space out any gap¬†within the¬†middle of the board¬†instead of¬†have it along¬†the sting¬†.

After the adhesive dries, remove the steel angles, polish them up with a wire wheel during a dremel tool and provides them two coats of gun blue, polishing after each coat. Soak your screws in acid for a few hours to get rid of the zinc coating and polish them up also . Give the screws and therefore the steel angles a few coats of protective clear coating. When dry reattach the angles to the chessboard with a few screws.

Step 3: Build the Case

Cut two pieces of 1 √ó 6 to 16″ long. Cut four pieces of 1 √ó 4 at 5 1/2″ long. Cut another piece of 1 √ó 6 at 10 1/2″ long¬†then¬†rip it¬†right down to¬†two pieces at 1 5/8″ wide and two pieces 3/4″ wide. Cut¬†a bit¬†of 1 √ó 4 to 16″ and rip two 3/4″ wide pieces from it.

Glue and nail the 5 1/2″ pieces of 1 √ó 4 onto the ends of the 16″ pieces of 1 √ó 6. Glue and nail the 1 5/8″ √ó 10 1/2″ pieces flush with the tops of the 1 √ó 4¬†and therefore the¬†3/4″ √ó 10 1/2″ pieces flush with the bottoms¬†to make¬†a box as shown¬†within the¬†pictures. Glue and nail the 3/4″ √ó 16″ pieces centered across¬†the highest¬†and bottom as pictured¬†to feature¬†stability. Attach mending plates to¬†the within¬†of the case at the joints to strengthen them.

Fill the nail holes with wood filler and after it dries sand the case and finish with stain and polyurethane.

Step 4: Build the Drawers

Rip¬†a number of¬†the leftover 1/2″ plywood to 2 7/8″ wide. Cut four pieces at 8 1/8″ long and two pieces at 9 3/8″. Cut two pieces of 1 √ó 8 at 9 3/8″ long. Cut two pieces of 1 √ó 6 at 11 1/2″ long and rip them¬†right down to¬†4″ wide.

Set your table saw blade at 1/2″ depth and 1/2″ from the fence and cut a rabbet around all four sides of both 4″ pieces as shown¬†within the¬†picture.
Glue and nail the pieces of wood together¬†to form¬†two drawers, with the 1 √ó 8¬†because the¬†bottom, the plywood pieces¬†because the¬†sides and back¬†and therefore the¬†4″ pieces¬†because the¬†drawer fronts.

Insert the drawers into the case and mark where the drawers touch the 3/4″ strip on¬†rock bottom¬†. Cut some small pieces of plywood and nail them to¬†the rear¬†of the drawers on either side¬†of those¬†lines to act as drawer guides. Cut the backs of the drawer sides on an angle so¬†you’ll¬†be¬†ready to¬†insert the drawers with the guides on.

Fill the nail holes with wood filler, sand and finish with stain and polyurethane.

Step 5: Attach the Top and Add Details

Put the chessboard portion on top of the case. Flip it¬†the wrong way up¬†and add¬†a few¬†corner brackets¬†to carry¬†it¬†in situ¬†. Flip it back over and add¬†the remainder¬†of the 3/4″ screws all¬†round the¬†top and sides of the steel angles.

Soak eight corner brackets and enough 3/4″ screws for them in¬†acid¬†to get rid of¬†the zinc coating. Finish the brackets with two coats of gun blue and polish them¬†and therefore the¬†screws with a wire wheel¬†within the¬†dremel. Apply two coats of protective clear coat. When dry, attach two brackets, evenly spaced,¬†to every¬†corner of the case. Attach handles to¬†the edges¬†of the case and to the drawer fronts.

Step 6: Build the Legs

I was originally¬†getting to¬†put a shelf near¬†rock bottom¬†of the chess table¬†then¬†built the legs to accommodate that. However, once the legs were on¬†i made a decision¬†I liked it better without a shelf. I’m¬†unsure¬†I describe¬†the method¬†of creating¬†the legs very clearly here and¬†it might¬†likely be easier¬†to only¬†make square legs and put¬†a small¬†taper on them if¬†you are doing¬†not¬†need a¬†shelf. However,¬†i will be able to¬†do my best¬†to explain¬†what I did¬†to form¬†the legs that are on the table.

Cut four pieces¬†of two¬†√ó 6 at 23″ long. Set your table saw blade at a 45¬į angle and rip eight pieces that are 2 3/4″ wide to the long point of the angle. Set the table saw blade back to 90¬į. Make a tapering jig out of some scrap pieces of wood as shown¬†within the¬†picture. Make the space between the boards at¬†the top¬†of the jig 1″. Place the jig against the table saw fence and put¬†one among¬†the 23″ boards¬†in situ¬†within the¬†jig with the long point of the angle against the jig¬†and therefore the¬†bottom of the board resting against the stop block. Adjust the fence¬†therefore the¬†board will contact the saw blade at 8″ down from¬†the highest¬†of the board. Run the boards through the saw using the jig with half the boards oriented with the long side facing down and half with the long side facing up.¬†this may¬†offer you¬†four pairs of boards with tapers on opposite sides.

Next, set your saw blade at a height of 3/4″ and your fence 5 1/2″ from the blade. With the long side facing down¬†and therefore the¬†top toward the fence, run each board through the saw several times to slowly nibble away half the thickness of¬†the highest¬†of the boards as shown¬†within the¬†picture.

Now glue and nail the board pairs together along the 45¬į angle¬†to make¬†four legs with tapered edges on¬†all sides¬†.

Fill the nail holes, sand and finish each leg. Nail a furniture glide to¬†rock bottom¬†of every¬†leg. Flip the chessboard¬†the wrong way up¬†and fasten¬†the legs with 1 1/4″ screws, four per leg. Flip the table back over¬†and luxuriate in¬†.

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