How To Make A Cabinet for Kitchen Trash Barrel


1: Wood Glue

2: Pocket hole screws

3: 3/4″ Plywood

4: 1/4″ plywood

5: Maple Board

6: Drawer tracks 


1: Kreg Jig

2: Cordless drill

3: Table Saw OR Circular Saw with a clamped straight edge 

4: Jig Saw 

5: Chop Saw

6: Router Table

7: Tape Measure and Square

Step 1: Measure Twice

Number 1 rule, measure twice and cut once. Find your opening dimensions, sit back and draw some blue prints.

Measure the opening Height x Width x Depth.

Measure an existing cabinets toe kick at rock bottom of the cupboard .

when drawing up your blue prints¬†you’ve got¬†to¬†believe¬†the steps of assembling it, check if¬†the cupboard¬†has trim or if¬†it’s¬†trim less (This cabinet style¬†i’m¬†making was for a trim-less set of cabinets).

The opening width¬†i used to be¬†working with was 15″ –¬†all sides¬†wall of my carcus was 3/4″ – i also wants¬†to carry¬†1/8″ of play to be abled¬†to slip¬†the cupboard¬†in easier.¬†this provides¬†the within¬†of¬†the cupboard¬†a gap¬†width of 13 3/8″

(15″- 3/4″- 3/4″ -1/8″ = 13 3/8″)

Now that¬†I even have¬†the within¬†opening width¬†i want¬†to see¬†out the thickness of my drawer tracks, mine were roughly 1/2″ but¬†you would like¬†them on¬†each side¬†making that 1″ of space¬†you would like¬†for track from side to side.

(13 3/8″- 1″= 12 3/8″) INSIDE OPENING WIDTH WITH TRACKS (trash barrel/ shelfs width)

now for the depth of¬†the cupboard¬†on the average¬†they’re made too 2′ or in inches 24″ but if¬†the prevailing¬†cabinets have trim thats roughly (3/4″ to 1″) thick and¬†you’ve got¬†the rear¬†board (3/4″ thick)¬†that might¬†make 22″ drawer tracks perfect side with¬†a touch¬†play from front to back when installing.

(24″- 1″= 23″ depth for¬†the edges¬†IF¬†you’ve got¬†TRIM ON EXISTING CABINETS) (24″ IF TRIM-LESS)

match the depth of the drawer to the length of the tracks

height varies to your opening to countertop (can’t remember¬†the precise¬†height of this project)

When building the shelf/ ashcan holder make it to the peak of rock bottom of the lip of your ashcan

When cutting toe kicker into rock bottom of you sides you would like to form sure you narrow deep enough for existing baseboard to land flush when installed.

Step 2: Prep Work

Once¬†you’ve got¬†all of your¬†measurements then your¬†able to¬†start making the pieces, use the¬†buzz saw¬†or table saw for the longer cuts, use the jig saw for the toe kick¬†and therefore the¬†cut out on¬†the highest¬†shelf for the¬†ashcan¬†to slip¬†into( i traced the lid then marked out 1/4″ offset¬†inside¬†those marks to match the lid over hang),¬†and therefore the¬†kreg jig to drill out for your pocket hole screws. the reg jig will have¬†a hoop¬†on the¬†drilling bit¬†you’ll¬†slide up and down the bit with an allan wrench,¬†suits¬†the dimensions¬†screw/ plywood thickness¬†you’re¬†using,¬†try¬†scrap wood first!

once¬†you’ve got¬†drilled¬†all of your¬†pocket holes and are¬†able to¬†start putting it together,¬†confirm¬†you set¬†a pleasant¬†even coat of wood glue in-between all the seems and screw them.

a trick for the drawer tracks is¬†to chop¬†alittle¬†board from¬†rock bottom¬†of¬†the cupboard¬†to¬†rock bottom¬†of the track as a cleat for screwing them in –¬†this may¬†offer you¬†an equivalent¬†elevation making them level as long as everything is square.

For making the faces, i had to match¬†the prevailing¬†faces. i took once of the doors off¬†the cupboard¬†and brough it back to the shop. i imagine not everyone will have¬†the right¬†routing bits as i didn’t ether, so¬†it’s going to¬†take¬†a while¬†patience and¬†tons¬†of pass throughs!

Step 3

Step 4Finish

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