How To Make A Coffee Kuksa Step By Step

Supplies

Safety glasses, a dust mask or HEPA filter, and ear plugs for the routers

Wood block 6″ x 6″ x 2.30″ – I used a rough cut 6×6 cedar post chopped to size with a miter saw.

Stainless steel bowl

Woodworking tools

Sand Paper

CNC milling machine

Long end mill 

1/2″ diameter round-over bit

Rotary tool with sanding drum

Fusion 360

Butcher block/cutting board oil 

Coffee 

Step 1: Design

The tempered steel bowl connected in “Provisions” was picked because of its generally low stature and 4.2″ (107 mm) width. As a matter of first importance, the bowl expected to fit under the x-cut’s Z (tallness) leeway of 2.64″ (67 mm) with space for one thickness of wood underneath (the floor of the kuksa). Second, the breadth of the bowl expected to fit inside promptly accessible wood sizes with space for two thicknesses of the wood (the kuksa’s dividers) and the handle that is a key component of a kuksa. See photograph 1 of bowl.
When a bowl was chosen, tallness, top width, and lower distance across estimations were taken with calipers and attracted combination 360. A counterbalance of 10 mm was utilized to make the wooden divider. A handle was included with a fairly discretionary shape that looked ergonomic. A 3/4″ (19 mm) gap was included per the measurement of my center finger. See photograph 2 of combination 360 structure.
Cedar was chosen for the wooden structure because of its spoil obstruction, moderately low thickness (making the cup lighter), and standard accessibility in 6×6 or 4×6 pillars. The truth will surface eventually if this softwood is sufficient for this application. Thickness of dividers and handle could be balanced later on.

Step 2: CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacturing)

When the plan was finished, the Manufacture workbench in Fusion 360 was utilized to produce gcode.
The arrangement appeared in the primary photograph shows the wood obstruct in yellow. Measurements for the stock work piece were taken with calipers, demonstrated as a square, and chose in the arrangement menu. This is important to arrange the kuksa corner to corner.
The initial step takes a main part of the material off the top face.
The subsequent advance clears progressively material on the top to plan for the scallop device way in stage 4.
The third step makes the adjusted bowl pocket for the tempered steel embed. The completion of this pocket winds up looking similar to a 3d print because of the gradual advance downs the bit takes.
The fourth step follows the shapes of the bowl in 1 mm step downs making a surface that can be effectively sand-capable.
At long last, the shape step removes the last 10 mm of thickness and leaves little tabs so the kuksa doesn’t proceed onward the last pass.
Make certain to recreate the instrument ways and watch for any red showing the machine slamming. I could see the last form toolpath made the collet crash so I knew to bring down the bit before cutting this progression.
When happy with the reproduction, send out gcode utilizing the easel post processor.

Step 3: Carving

The gcode is brought into an easel venture.
I utilized an endmill to cut out certain means for the braces to clutch first, remembering where the kuksa won’t be. This undertaking truly maximizes the stock xcarve stature as should be obvious in the third photograph.
Subsequent to cutting stages 1-5 in the CAM procedure, the round-over piece is utilized to make a filet around the base edge. See the fourth photograph for how I set this up on the xcarve. I don’t know the harsh completion of this filet was because of the low quality piece or the eccentric utilization of the xcarve. I’d prescribe utilizing a top notch round-over on a standard fixed switch table.
Tidying up the kuksa from the fifth to 6th photograph was finished with the turning apparatus with a drum sander. The more ergonomic handle and gap were likewise made by sanding endlessly. Wear a residue veil or HEPA channel!

Step 4: Finishing

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