How To Make Child’s Workbench Step By Step

Step 1: Draw Plans

Before beginning this build, I spent tons of your time scouring the web watching other workbenches and plans before choosing the design I wanted. 2×4’s seemed too bulky for alittle piece like this, and would really have made it far too heavy to be practical. i made a decision on 1×4’s for the legs and cosmetic pieces (hiding the frames within the front/back) and 1×2’s for the frame/supports. Ultimately, i made a decision that I wanted the surface to be 48″ x 18″, with a height of about 24″, with a framed pegboard (an additional 20″ above the work surface). I wanted the highest and shelf frames to nest within the legs, and decided to sandwich 1×4’s rather than trying to chop dadoes. I also decided to feature a strip of ovolo to the surface and peg board to finish the framed look (you could leave this out, or use 1×2 just like the remainder of the frame).

Step 2: Materials

Cut List:
Support/Shelf Frames:
1×2 @:
16 1/4″ – 4
46 1/2″ – 4
14 3/4″ – 4

1×4 @:
41″ – 4

1/2″ Plywood @
18″ x 48″ – 2
(One of those will got to be notched 3 1/2″ x 1 3/4″ at each corner to accommodate for the legs)

Legs:
1×4 @:
24″ – 4
5″ – 4
16″ – 4

Pegboard/ Frame
Pegboard @: 24″ x 48″
1×2@:
20″ – 2
45″ – 1

Quarter Round @:
45″ – 1

Misc:
Castors – 4

Tools used:
Compound Miter Saw (No mitered cuts were made, this is often just what I used)
Table Saw (A buzz saw could even be used)
Band Saw (for cutting notches. could also use a jigsaw)
Drill
Brad Nailer (Used for attaching shelves and pegboard. you’ll also hammer nails, or use screws)
Wood Glue
Clamps(You can never have too many clamps)
#6 2″ Drywall Screws
#6 1 1/4″ Drywall Screws
3/4″ Brads
1 1/2″ Brads
Minwax Golden Oak Stain
Minwax Polyurethane Clear Satin
3″ Foam Paintbrush (for the stain)
2″ Bristled Paintbrush (for the poly)
Sandpaper (multiple grits 100-400. I also used 1000 to lightly sand the dried poly coat)

Step 3: Building Frames

Tips: I won’t mention it for each step, but any time two pieces of wood are joined, assume that gluing is additionally required. do not forget to wash any drips, as dried glue won’t take stain. Check for square/level often through each step. Drill pilot holes for each screw.


Use a butt to hitch the 16 1/4″ 1×2’s to the 46 1/2″ 1×2’s (side pieces on the outside) with 2″ screws.
16″ from each end, attach the 14 3/4″ 1×2’s for added support.

Step 4: Attaching Legs

Sandwich the 5″ 1×4’s to rock bottom interior end of the 24″ 1×4’s with 1 1/4″ screws. Attach the 16″ 1×4’s 1 1/2 ” above the 5″ piece, leaving a further 1 1/2″ space at the highest . These gaps are where the frames you only built will nest. I used scrap pieces of 1×2 as spacers to make sure a decent fit. Attach the legs to the front and back of your frames at the corners with 2″ screws (into the side rail) and 1 1/4″ screws (into the front rail). Repeat an equivalent steps for the highest frame. After the legs are secured to the shelf frames, attach the 41″ 1×4’s to the front and back of the frame, flush at the highest . These pieces are cosmetic, to stay according to the design of the legs. These also fill a niche under the work surface/shelf on the front and back edges.

Step 5: Install Shelves

Attach the 20″ 1×2’s to the 45″ 1×2 (sides on the outside). These will frame the pegboard, once attached. Before installing the surface , attach the three sided frame you’ve just made by screwing it to the surface from the under side of the plywood at the rear corners with 2″ screws. Normally you’d use a splice here ( cross piece on top of vertical sides) in order that the load is on the piece, and not on the screws. Since there’s no load on top of this joint, I opted to use a butt to stay the design of the frame according to the legs/shelves. (The load on those joints is on the legs and 1×2 frame, not the 41″ 1×4’s that were attached to the front and back. Those are cosmetic.)


Notch rock bottom shelf (3 1/2″ x 1 3/4″) at the corners to accommodate for the legs. Attach the surface and shelf in situ with 1 1/2″ brads about every 6 inches.

Step 6: Final Steps

Sand everything until smooth and clear dust with a clean cloth and/or dry brush (a wet cloth will raise the grain and you will need to sand again). Apply stain and polyurethane as manufacturer directions indicate. What I even have pictured is 2 coats of Minwax Golden Oak, and 1 coat of Clear Satin Poly. At this point , also stain your 45″ piece of ovolo . Once everything is dry, add the pegboard by gluing, clamping, and nailing with 3/4″ brads. There should be 4″ of pegboard attached to the rear of the workbench, the remainder should fit squarely on the frame. I had to regulate slightly to line up the holes within the pegboard, which had been cut slightly crooked. Next time i will be able to be checking pegboard more carefully at the availability store before selecting a bit .

Attach the ovolo to the surface and pegboard with wood glue, and 3/8″ brads (from the back) to finish frame. I also added castors to the legs to form easier to maneuver round the garage. Since the legs are sandwiched and not a solid piece, I opted for castors that are screwed onto the legs. confirm to urge ones with bases that are narrow enough to suit properly.

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