How To Make Tanto Knife From Lawn Mower Blade

Step 1: The Materials

Lawn mover blade

Walnut

Aluminum rod (4.2 mm thick)

Aluminum bar (10 mm thick)

Epoxy

Tools I used:

Angle grinder

drill

4.2 mm drill bit

gas torch

dremel with carbide and diamond bits

Step 2: The Design

I had drawn multiple versions of this design a few of moths ago. i actually just like the look of the (so called) tanto style grind on the knife. i do not think it’s really the foremost practical sort of blade for love or money but that does not mean it sucks. Sometimes style and aesthetics are worth small sacrifices. This knife was never meant to be your every-day survival tool but rather something stylish yet functional.

First I drew the planning I wanted on a paper and took an image of it. The I took the image to Photoshop and traced the planning from the image . I printed out 3 different sized version of the planning to urge the simplest fit possible to my very own hand.

Step 3: The Blade\

After ablation the planning and selecting which size seemed the simplest , I traced the planning on a lawn mover blade I had found and straightened. Lawn mover blade in not hardened because then it might be more likely to crack instead of bend when hitting a stone.

I cut my design out roughly with a angle grinder and a cutting wheel. Then I changed the cutting wheel to a rock emery wheel , which I even have found to be excellent for fast and rough stock removal. I ground the planning as close as I possibly could with the angle grinder and finished grinding the form with belt sander and a dremel tool in tight spots. within the end I flattened the edges of my blank but I left a number of the rough spots on the blade to job my memory of what the blade wont to be. It gives the knife some more character.

After I had finished the form of my design it had been time to grind the bevels of the blade. i do not have one among those fancy vertical belt sanders you see many knife makers use, so I’ve built a sort of riser for the belt to be ably to go away the choil while grinding. Otherwise the sting of my sander would be too round to urge a pleasant choil on the blade. I used a permanent marker to paint the sting on my blank and used a caliper to draw teh center line to assist my get the sting symmetric. there’s not really many tricks to grinding a blade by hand trial and error you’ll learn to stay a continuing angle while grinding. it is often an honest idea to first leave the sting a touch thicker to stop the blade from cracking during quenching. Heat treating usually leaves teh blade with some scaling anyways so you will have to grind the sting again anyways.

Step 4: The Bolster and the Handle

My way of creating the bolster and therefore the refore the handle isn’t the fastest but i feel it gives me the leas gap between the bolster and the handle. I started with a bar of aluminum. Because my aluminum bar was thick enough to form both bolsters I drilled a hole through it and cut it in half I used the factory cut surfaces on the within rather than the very uneven surfaces I had just cut. I put some epoxy under the bolsters and attached the bolsters to the knife with a aluminum pin. Then I used clamps to carry the thing together goodbye that the epoxy dried.

After the epoxy had dried I cut myself the handle blanks from walnut. I made the blanks a touch oversized in order that did not have to urge the angled cut between the wood and therefore the aluminum right the primary time: After i used to be finished with the fit I used the epoxy to attach one among the edges to the knife. After the epoxy had dried I used the pin holes on the knife to drill the holes to the wood. The I did an equivalent thing on the opposite side. After both of the edges had been glued and therefore the holes drilled I attached the pins to the wood spare more epoxy. Then I sanded roughly the handle to my wanted shape with various sanding tools.

Step 5: Finishing

Now that I had my rough unfinished knife ready I started sanding the blade and therefore the handle from 400 grit up to 2000 grit. After this I polished the metal parts wit ha wheel and buffing compound leaving me with mirror polish. The polishing wheel also did the ultimate sharpening of the sting and it’s now razor sharp. NOTE: never polish a blade in order that the wheel is spinning towards your edge. The knife can get caught to the wheel which might be really dangerous.

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