Knife From Welding Electrodes

Material and tools required:-

Material used.

1.SS 308 welding electrodes

2.High carbon welding electrodes

3.Pickling agent for chrome steel

Tools used:-

1.Wire brush

2.Wire wheel

3.Safety goggles

4.Welding helmet

5.Welding set

6.Angle grinder

7.Grinding disk’s

8.Buffing wheel

9.Buffing compound


11. Needle Rasp File

12.Chipping hammer

13. vise


15.Diamond File

16.Diamond wheel

Step 1: Removing the Flux and Electrode Cleanup

So¬†to start out¬†this build¬†the primary¬†thing¬†you would like¬†to try to to¬†is take away¬†the outer flux from the electrodes¬†in order that¬†you’ll¬†stack them together¬†to make¬†a basic knife shape. For the removal of the flux¬†you’ll¬†either dip them¬†within the¬†water for¬†a few¬†of hours¬†then¬†it’ll¬†come off easily but I¬†i exploit¬†chipping hammer¬†to get rid of¬†that flux. Although¬†it isn’t¬†that difficult¬†to get rid of¬†it with the hammering process. Once the flux¬†is totally¬†removed I start the cleaning process and for that, I attach Scotch Brite wheel on to my angle grinder¬†then¬†remove the remaining flux from that electrode¬†to form¬†it nice clean¬†and glossy¬†.

Step 2: ‚ÄčDesigning the Basic Shape and Bending the Electrodes

So once the cleanup process completed I draw¬†the essential¬†shape of a chef’s knife onto the bench. Usually, the length of a chef’s knife is around 8-9 inches so¬†i’m going¬†with 9″ length¬†and therefore the¬†tang varied¬†consistent with¬†the grip. So¬†then¬†, I bend the electrodes by following the knife shape until I fill my entire Design with electrodes. Then by taking them little by little I start making tack weld. During this work, one thing¬†must¬†be taking care of that for¬†the sting¬†you would like¬†a carbon rod because otherwise,¬†you’re¬†unable¬†to urge¬†a hardened edge.

Step 3: ‚ÄčWelding to Form Basic Knife Billet

Once¬†the essential¬†tack welding¬†is completed¬†and basic knife shape seems to be visible I start the cleaning process first. For that,¬†i exploit¬†pickling agent which¬†is employed¬†to get rid of¬†the black oxides and slag from the¬†chrome steel¬†and brightens the welds. So before starting the welding I¬†pack up¬†all the tacks and¬†confirm¬†no slag remains inside during the welding. Once¬†it has been¬†completely cleaned I start the welding¬†and through¬†welding few things¬†got to¬†lookout¬†of is that¬†confirm¬†to wash¬†up your weld with a wire brush and chipping hammer¬†confirm¬†no slag left behind otherwise it’s¬†getting to¬†be trapped between weld layers. Once the welding from one side is complete I didn’t start the weld onto another side because¬†there’s¬†tons¬†of burn scales appears onto¬†the other¬†side¬†and therefore the¬†re are few areas still left where slag get trapped so I again¬†pack up¬†the whole¬†billet with pickling agent and the trapped slag is removed with¬†the assistance¬†of foredom.¬†i exploit¬†diamond burs and carbide burrs to knock off the slag¬†in order that¬†I can fill it with the weld material. Once everything again cleaned I start the weld on¬†the opposite¬†side. Once these two welds completed¬†I even have¬†a pleasant¬†thick billet with which I can make my chef’s knife.

Step 4: ‚ÄčForging the Billet

To make sure¬†that each¬†part fused together nicely¬†i made a decision¬†to try to to¬†the forging part although¬†i’m¬†completely¬†new¬†this work but I manage¬†to try to to¬†it properly. Few things onto which I wanted to pay much attention¬†is that the¬†bolster piece and tip of the knife. I heat the billet until it gets at a fusion temperature¬†then¬†starts hammering the billet.¬†i’m¬†sure that by doing this¬†there’s¬†no delamination or crack inside the billet and everything would be nice and solid.

Step 5: ‚ÄčGrinding the Bevels

Once the billet has been forged out I started the bevelling process. i do not have a belt grinder so I do always with an angle grinder. For this, i exploit a thick emery wheel to hog of much material as I can. For grinding this i exploit the eyeballing method. Once the essential grinding has been done i exploit files to flatten the whole knife because grinder never grinds straight except for a knife, you would like a straight piece and to realize that i exploit files to accomplish that straightness.

Step 6: ‚ÄčQuenching

So this part goes slightly wrong although¬†the top¬†result’s¬†acceptable. So I wanted¬†to try to to¬†the case hardening¬†and therefore the¬†reason is that I wanted to use¬†chrome steel¬†304 for knife making so¬†i made a decision¬†why¬†to not¬†give that¬†an attempt¬†. So for the case hardening, I used charred leather mixed with salt and¬†flour¬†during a¬†ratio of 6:4:3 by its weight respectively. Then mixed with water and kneaded thoroughly¬†in order that¬†i’m¬†ready to¬†wrap it¬†round the¬†knife. Once the coating¬†is tough¬†I made a case and put it inside the case¬†in order that¬†it’ll¬†unable¬†to urge¬†oxygen. I saw click spring channel¬†during which¬†he did case hardening but I¬†did not have¬†clay for the case so I made it with¬†sheet¬†and that i¬†determine¬†that¬†I even have¬†to place¬†the knife for around 50 minutes to induce the carbon¬†within the¬†billet. But¬†once I¬†check after¬†quarter-hour¬†I saw that the case¬†is totally¬†gone¬†and therefore the¬†coating¬†is additionally¬†burnt off so¬†i made a decision¬†to go away¬†that part and quench it in water because¬†albeit¬†case hardening didn’t succeed the electrodes used for¬†the sides¬†have enough carbon around .50% that it’s¬†ready to¬†provide¬†an honest¬†leading edge¬†.¬†thanks to¬†that case Hardening, the tip¬†is additionally¬†melted but¬†a touch¬†reshaping makes¬†the work¬†done. After quenching I didn’t temper the blade because¬†i assumed¬†something different¬†that¬†.

Step 7: ‚ÄčGrinding and Polishing to the Final Shape.

Once the quenching has been completed I start the grinding work. First removes the size with an angle grinder then attached a grinding drum stone to my drill press then flatten the whole knife evenly. I also use a diamond file to flatten the knife because after the quenching metal files skates from the sting area. Once i buy even grind finish with the stones and files I start the polishing process and its required tons of effort . I start at 150 grit and goes up to 1500 grit and ready to get a pleasant clean finish.

Step 8: ‚ÄčHandle

So the handle part¬†is formed¬†out of resin and¬†a couple of¬†years back I made a knife¬†and that i¬†wanted¬†to form¬†a resin handle for that. For that, I pour polyester resin mixed with 3 different pearls and poured into the mould¬†to urge¬†that handle block. After having that handle block I mark¬†the opening¬†location for the handle Tang¬†then¬†drilled out the holes and make them precise fit with¬†the assistance¬†of rasp needle files. Then I start shaping the handle. First I draw the layout roughly onto the handle block¬†then¬†grind¬†the fabric¬†onto my drill press. For this,¬†i exploit¬†a special¬†technique¬†during which¬†I insert the¬†drilling bit¬†into a PVC pipe¬†then¬†wrap the sandpaper around that¬†and take away¬†the fabric¬†. If I start doing that with¬†the assistance¬†of files then¬†it’ll¬†take¬†tons¬†of your time¬†. Once the rough shape is achieved I insert the handle into the knife¬†then¬†make¬†a particular¬†shape with files¬†and therefore the¬†electric sander¬†. I insert that into the knife because a knife¬†features a¬†bolster¬†which¬†bolster¬†must¬†make a smooth transition with the handle¬†and therefore the¬†only¬†thanks to¬†get¬†that’s¬†by attaching the handle with the knife. That’s why tight-fitting of handle is required. Then I finish the handle up to 1000 grit with sandpaper and make it completely smooth.

Step 9: ‚ÄčBuffing

Once the sanding work is finished up to¬†the specified¬†grit I buff¬†the whole¬†knife. Here one thing is¬†to form¬†sure that using buffing with a knife¬†i exploit¬†speed regulator and reduced the speed very low¬†to form¬†it safer. I rub the blade with¬†wheel¬†and it slightly heats up the surface then rub the buffing compound over it. This process melts the compound over the surface¬†then¬†you’ll¬†effectively buff the surface. With same buffing compound, I also buff the handle¬†also¬†to mirror polish like state.

Step 10: ‚ÄčColouring and Sharpening

Then¬†i made a decision¬†to offer¬†this some rainbow colour and as¬†you recognize¬†at certain temperature metal changes its colour. So I kept¬†an eye fixed¬†onto¬†the sting¬†because overheating the blade also ruins the hardness. So I heat until¬†i buy¬†a straw colour at¬†the sides¬†.¬†confirm¬†to try to to¬†it without handle otherwise it ruins the handle completely. Then I sharpened¬†the sting¬†and it’s fairly simple¬†on behalf of me¬†to try to to¬†. I turn down the speed of the grinder very slow speed¬†then¬†sharpen¬†the sting¬†. I start with 400 grit¬†then¬†finish it with 2000 grit. A paper cutting test confirms its sharpness.

Step 11: ‚ÄčAssembling

The last and¬†most vital¬†thing is to assemble both the pieces together. Since¬†i’m¬†not¬†getting to¬†add pins for locking the handle that’s why I created some teeth into the tang of the knife¬†in order that¬†once I¬†pour the epoxy it stuck¬†therein¬†area¬†which¬†will jam the handle to its place and make it impossible¬†to get rid of¬†until you break the handle apart. Then I mixed two part epoxy¬†then¬†mixed some pigment to match the front piece of the handle¬†then¬†allow it to cure¬†and therefore the¬†outcome¬†is¬†ahead¬†of you.

Step 12: Finished Product

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