Supplies: Material and tools required:-
1.SS 308 welding electrodes
2.High carbon welding electrodes
3.Pickling agent for
11. Needle Rasp File
Step 1: Removing the Flux and Electrode Cleanup
So to start out this build the primary thing you would like to try to to is take away the outer flux from the electrodes in order that you’ll stack them together to make a basic knife shape. For the removal of the flux you’ll either dip them within the water for a few of hours then it’ll come off easily but I i exploit chipping hammer to get rid of that flux. Although it isn’t that difficult to get rid of it with the hammering process. Once the flux is totally removed I start the cleaning process and for that, I attach Scotch Brite wheel on to my angle grinder then remove the remaining flux from that electrode to form it nice clean and glossy .
Step 2: Designing the Basic Shape and Bending the Electrodes
So once the cleanup process completed I draw the essential shape of a chef’s knife onto the bench. Usually, the length of a chef’s knife is around 8-9 inches so i’m going with 9″ length and therefore the tang varied consistent with the grip. So then , I bend the electrodes by following the knife shape until I fill my entire Design with electrodes. Then by taking them little by little I start making tack weld. During this work, one thing must be taking care of that for the sting you would like a carbon rod because otherwise, you’re unable to urge a hardened edge.
Step 3: Welding to Form Basic Knife Billet
Once the essential tack welding is completed and basic knife shape seems to be visible I start the cleaning process first. For that, i exploit pickling agent which is employed to get rid of the black oxides and slag from the chrome steel and brightens the welds. So before starting the welding I pack up all the tacks and confirm no slag remains inside during the welding. Once it has been completely cleaned I start the welding and through welding few things got to lookout of is that confirm to wash up your weld with a wire brush and chipping hammer confirm no slag left behind otherwise it’s getting to be trapped between weld layers. Once the welding from one side is complete I didn’t start the weld onto another side because there’s tons of burn scales appears onto the other side and therefore the re are few areas still left where slag get trapped so I again pack up the whole billet with pickling agent and the trapped slag is removed with the assistance of foredom. i exploit diamond burs and carbide burrs to knock off the slag in order that I can fill it with the weld material. Once everything again cleaned I start the weld on the opposite side. Once these two welds completed I even have a pleasant thick billet with which I can make my chef’s knife.
Step 4: Forging the Billet
To make sure that each part fused together nicely i made a decision to try to to the forging part although i’m completely new this work but I manage to try to to it properly. Few things onto which I wanted to pay much attention is that the bolster piece and tip of the knife. I heat the billet until it gets at a fusion temperature then starts hammering the billet. i’m sure that by doing this there’s no delamination or crack inside the billet and everything would be nice and solid.
Step 5: Grinding the Bevels
Once the billet has been forged out I started the bevelling process. i do not have a belt grinder so I do always with an angle grinder. For this, i exploit a thick emery wheel to hog of much material as I can. For grinding this i exploit the eyeballing method. Once the essential grinding has been done i exploit files to flatten the whole knife because grinder never grinds straight except for a knife, you would like a straight piece and to realize that i exploit files to accomplish that straightness.
Step 6: Quenching
So this part goes slightly wrong although the top result’s acceptable. So I wanted to try to to the case hardening and therefore the reason is that I wanted to use chrome steel 304 for knife making so i made a decision why to not give that an attempt . So for the case hardening, I used charred leather mixed with salt and flour during a ratio of 6:4:3 by its weight respectively. Then mixed with water and kneaded thoroughly in order that i’m ready to wrap it round the knife. Once the coating is tough I made a case and put it inside the case in order that it’ll unable to urge oxygen. I saw click spring channel during which he did case hardening but I did not have clay for the case so I made it with sheet and that i determine that I even have to place the knife for around 50 minutes to induce the carbon within the billet. But once I check after quarter-hour I saw that the case is totally gone and therefore the coating is additionally burnt off so i made a decision to go away that part and quench it in water because albeit case hardening didn’t succeed the electrodes used for the sides have enough carbon around .50% that it’s ready to provide an honest leading edge . thanks to that case Hardening, the tip is additionally melted but a touch reshaping makes the work done. After quenching I didn’t temper the blade because i assumed something different that .
Step 7: Grinding and Polishing to the Final Shape.
Once the quenching has been completed I start the grinding work. First removes the size with an angle grinder then attached a grinding drum stone to my drill press then flatten the whole knife evenly. I also use a diamond file to flatten the knife because after the quenching metal files skates from the sting area. Once i buy even grind finish with the stones and files I start the polishing process and its required tons of effort . I start at 150 grit and goes up to 1500 grit and ready to get a pleasant clean finish.
Step 8: Handle
So the handle part is formed out of resin and a couple of years back I made a knife and that i wanted to form a resin handle for that. For that, I pour polyester resin mixed with 3 different pearls and poured into the mould to urge that handle block. After having that handle block I mark the opening location for the handle Tang then drilled out the holes and make them precise fit with the assistance of rasp needle files. Then I start shaping the handle. First I draw the layout roughly onto the handle block then grind the fabric onto my drill press. For this, i exploit a special technique during which I insert the drilling bit into a PVC pipe then wrap the sandpaper around that and take away the fabric . If I start doing that with the assistance of files then it’ll take tons of your time . Once the rough shape is achieved I insert the handle into the knife then make a particular shape with files and therefore the electric sander . I insert that into the knife because a knife features a bolster which bolster must make a smooth transition with the handle and therefore the only thanks to get that’s by attaching the handle with the knife. That’s why tight-fitting of handle is required. Then I finish the handle up to 1000 grit with sandpaper and make it completely smooth.
Step 9: Buffing
Once the sanding work is finished up to the specified grit I buff the whole knife. Here one thing is to form sure that using buffing with a knife i exploit speed regulator and reduced the speed very low to form it safer. I rub the blade with wheel and it slightly heats up the surface then rub the buffing compound over it. This process melts the compound over the surface then you’ll effectively buff the surface. With same buffing compound, I also buff the handle also to mirror polish like state.
Step 10: Colouring and Sharpening
Then i made a decision to offer this some rainbow colour and as you recognize at certain temperature metal changes its colour. So I kept an eye fixed onto the sting because overheating the blade also ruins the hardness. So I heat until i buy a straw colour at the sides . confirm to try to to it without handle otherwise it ruins the handle completely. Then I sharpened the sting and it’s fairly simple on behalf of me to try to to . I turn down the speed of the grinder very slow speed then sharpen the sting . I start with 400 grit then finish it with 2000 grit. A paper cutting test confirms its sharpness.
Step 11: Assembling
The last and most vital thing is to assemble both the pieces together. Since i’m not getting to add pins for locking the handle that’s why I created some teeth into the tang of the knife in order that once I pour the epoxy it stuck therein area which will jam the handle to its place and make it impossible to get rid of until you break the handle apart. Then I mixed two part epoxy then mixed some pigment to match the front piece of the handle then allow it to cure and therefore the outcome is ahead of you.
Step 12: Finished Product