Supplies:
Supplies you’ll need for this project include:
6″ – 12″ clamps
Circular Saw (aka Skilsaw)
Jigsaw (with a “metal-thick” blade)
3/4″ countertop or shelf plywood (at least a 30″ long x 17″ wide sheet — I used wood I had on hand)
3 metal flats each having a base flap that’s 1″ or less thorough (to connect it to the shelves) — I used an old napkin holder I had available that I originally bought at Goodwill
Sandpaper (150-220+ grits)
A level and/or speed square (I ended up employing a speed square)
Measuring tape
Drill (with drill bits — I used a Phillips head bit for the screws)
1 1/2″ Construction or Wood screws, or nails if you favor (I used screws)
Wood glue
Painter’s tape
2 Keyhole hangers (not pictured) for mounting the bookshelf to the wall
Optional: drum sander
Optional: Wood filler (to cover screw holes, but I found that you simply couldn’t see them within the finished piece)
Optional: magnets to carry book covers to the metal (but, again, I found that these were unnecessary within the finished piece)
Optional: hammer (if using nails rather than screws)
Optional: paint, stain, or other finishings
Step 1: Plan It Out

The impossible bookshelf is essentially as many alternating 90 degree shelves as you would like . the primary shelf are going to be at a 90 degree angle from the perpendicular shelf below it. The second shelf (the one that’s perpendicular to the primary shelf) are going to be at a 90 degree angle from the perpendicular shelf below it. then forth…
When you are done, it’ll quite resemble stairs in its appearance (see the drawing for clarity).
To make this exact bookshelf, I planned for the following:
3 – 17″ long x 10″ deep x 3/4″ thick shelves
3 – 4.5″ long (by a shorter width than your books) strong metal holders
Step 2: Mark Your Wood for Cutting

Step 3: Clamp It

Step 4: Add the Cut Lines

This line is around 1-1/2″ (technically it’s at 1-17/32″). This line represents where I will add my straight edge to so when the circular saw’s shoe brushes up against the straight edge it makes a perfectly straight cut.
Step 5: Add the Straight Edge

Step 6: Cut

Step 7: Glue It Together

Use a speed square to ensure the boards meet at a perfect 90 degree angle. Tape it together to hold it up, and wipe off the excess wood glue with a lightly damp cloth (or your finger).
Step 8: Add Screws or Nails

If you can get them to indent a little bit into the wood, you can fill them to flush with wood filler later for a completely unnoticeable joining. However, most everyone will be so interested in the illusion of the books on the shelf that they probably won’t notice the screws anyways (mine aren’t noticeable barely at all in the finished piece).
Repeat the gluing and screwing steps until all shelves are joined.
Step 9: Allow to Dry

Step 10: OPTIONAL: Making Metal Flats

If you don’t have pre-fabricated metal flats, now is the time to make them from whatever metal you are using.
I used this napkin holder because the metal was already in the perfect shape that I needed, and was very sturdy.
First, I found the center of the base and marked it.
Step 11: Clamp It

Step 12: Cut

Step 13: Cut in Thirds

Mark roughly the 1/3 and 2/3 marks. (To have each be an exact match in width to the next isn’t crucial as no one will see these metal flats because the books will fully conceal them.) Then, carefully cut the metal vertically with the same jigsaw and blade.
Step 14: Finished Pieces

Step 15: Remove Danglers

Step 16: Smooth Sharp Edge

Step 17: Trace the Bases

I also added an arrow pointing in the direction I wanted the base flap to go on each shelf. This was basically pointing away from the edge of each shelf.
Step 18: Glue and Tape

OPTIONAL: you can additionally add 1/2″ screws through the bases of the metal flats into the plywood (so it doesn’t come out the other end) if you want the extra stability or assurance. But I didn’t use anything except E6000 glue.
Step 19: Move It Inside & Heat It Up

Step 20: Let Dry

Step 21: Mark the Back and Top

Step 22: Sand

I waited until now to sand the shelves and edges of this project. In hind sight, I could’ve done this before adding the metal flats, but it worked fine for me at this point too. I used 150 – 220 grit sandpaper. Wipe off excess sawdust with a lightly damp cloth.
Step 23: Test It!

This is the slightly nerve-wracking, slightly exciting part! Will all that hard work pay off?
As you can see from the picture, IT DID!!
To add the books to the metal flats:
Use a hard cover book that is roughly one to two inches taller than the top of the metal.
Open it to the very front or very back cover (dependent on which way your books will face on the shelf)
Close the book around the metal flat and slide the book until the binding of the book is about an inch away from the metal flat (that makes the cover stay pushed up against the book so it doesn’t hang open).
Stack your other books down against the first book (making sure that they are of equal or lesser size to the first book).
SOURCE —————– www.instructables.com