Making Shoe Racks Step By Step

Step 1: Rack Design

The space calls for 5 feet-ish tall rack.

I picked 64″ based on the mother’s reach height. Since there is a 4″ step down from the corner to the garage floor, the second rack will be 68″ tall so that they are the same height standing side by side.

The corner space is only about 34″ wide, so I measured the line-up three pair of shoes and decided to go for 30″ wide shelf.

Step 2: Plywood Shelves

One sheet of plywood is employed for all shelves.

Break down the 4 x 8 sheet into 3 of 30″ pieces first,¬†then¬†it’ll¬†be ripped into 4 pieces of 11 1/2″ wide strips,¬†therefore the¬†full sheet will yield (12) shelves.

Since the planning calling for shelves sitting during a 15 degree angle, 12 strips of wood also will be needed to:

1. Band the plywood front
2. Provide a stop for shoes¬†in order that they¬†don’t¬†slump¬†.

I have some scrap ceder fence materials, so I ripped them on table saw at 1 1/2″ wide. Regular 2x material¬†also can¬†be used if rip it into 1/2″ thick.

Line the strip up with rock bottom of the shelf, use glue and nails to connect to the shelf. A plane is employed to make some chamfer along the front trim piece, and a 30 degree move the trim strip at each corners will provide a way better finished look.

Last step is sanding.

Step 3: Side Supports

Cut (2) side supports @ 64″ and (2) @ 68″.

Cut spacers 8″ long.¬†this will¬†be altered¬†supported¬†the user’s need. The trick is¬†to line¬†up a stop block on the miter saw and cut all pieces in one batch,¬†which¬†will¬†make sure the¬†alignment of the shelves.

Since¬†there’ll¬†be a flat shelf on¬†the highest¬†of the rack, one end of¬†the primary¬†spacer from¬†the highest¬†are going to be¬†straight¬†rather than¬†15 degree. Pick a side¬†that appears¬†better as outside and lay it down flat, use glue and nails¬†to connect¬†the primary¬†spacer piece on top by aligning all three sides.¬†i’m¬†using 18 gauge staples to act like mini clamps. Construction (poly) adhesive¬†also can¬†be used¬†rather than¬†wood glue, probably better if one works with “not so flat boards”, I just¬†do not have¬†any in hands, plus¬†i feel¬†3 pairs of shoes wouldn’t be very heavy.

Use an off cut piece from the plywood in between two spacers and attached the¬†other¬†, and keep moving down. Leave the last piece 3 1/2″¬†in need of¬†rock bottom¬†.

The feet are from scrap 2×4,¬†and that they¬†are 18″ long. First piece¬†is employed¬†as a template¬†to make¬†the opposite¬†three pieces. No special design here, just¬†a few¬†of straight lines form a shape that’s¬†kind of¬†appeasing the eyes. Cuts¬†are often¬†made with jig saw, and¬†a couple of¬†passes with a hand plane to smooth the cut surface.

Step 4: Assembly

The feet are going to be attached first with glue and a few of brad nails, then clamped and stapled at the opposite side.

Apply glue¬†to every¬†groove¬†of 1¬†side of the vertical support, and push the shelves into place,¬†ensuring¬†the revel at the front stays¬†an equivalent¬†for each¬†shelf.¬†i exploit¬†a 5″ scrap¬†to place¬†a pencil mark on each shelf, and align the front¬†fringe of¬†the vertical support to the mark.

Repeat an equivalent process to put in the opposite side of the vertical support.

The glue up may be a fast process, other wise, the glue are going to be set before the shelf get installed. Practice a rehearsal (assembly process without glue) before the particular glue up may be a great way to make sure to know the assemble sequence.

Two of the 1 1/2″ staples are then¬†wont to¬†secure the shelf¬†in situ¬†. And¬†a couple of¬†clamps are used before the glue set.

I put the assembly onto a flat surface, and¬†determine¬†the rocking direction of the rack, then use one flat head screw at the lower side as adjustment / leveling screw, because the rack¬†are going to be¬†used on concrete floor. No finish¬†is required¬†during this¬†case, but if¬†i’m¬†making this for inside the house,¬†i might¬†a minimum of¬†put¬†a few¬†of coats of poly¬†to guard¬†the surface from wet shoes¬†and dirt¬†.

And¬†now’s¬†time to load them up.

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